Switzerland has mountains and serious views — some of the best in the world. You can visit Heidi in the Alps, sail the waters of Lake Maggiore and gorge on chocolate and fondue along the cobbled streets of Zurich, all in one trip.
What most people don’t do, however, is carve time for Bern, Switzerland’s federal (rather than capital) city which boasts a medieval old town, a captivating turquoise river and a reputation for being boring.
Bern is definitely one of the most laid-back cities in Europe. At times, it can feel sleepy.
But, as I discover while strolling through its leafy parks, dining at its historic bistros and cycling the Sound of Music plateaus that surround it, Bern is a love affair you never expected to have.
Floating to work
Michel Montandon takes pride in his city. Walking in the shadow of the Zytglogge, Bern’s gilded clock tower built in the 13th century, the historian fizzes as he tells me about the Minster (it has the highest church steeple in the country) and the public swimming pool, the first in Switzerland to allow women to sunbathe topless.
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He’s eager to talk about Bern’s bear pit, a 6,000sqm plot in the heart of the city where three brown bears have lived since 2009. But he almost boils over with excitement when I ask about the River Aare.
During the hot summer months in at least two Swiss cities – Basel and Bern – locals commute via river. And not by boat; they swim.
The Aare is the first thing you see as you arrive by train in Bern, curling around the centre fed by pristine water from the Bernese Alps. This most natural of transport modes is, without qualification, the most beautiful river I’ve ever seen. Its milky glacial hue has a fairytale feel.
Michel beams as he recalls his younger days, working at a local supermarket that gave staff an extended two-hour lunch break in the summertime so they could cool off.
‘Everyone would go, we’d come back with wet hair and finish the shift,’ he says.
And there they were, during my visit in May, dozens of them, floating with the crystal current, dry bags in tow. I dip a toe, but Michel and myriad warning signs caution against diving headfirst. The river is powerful, and you shouldn’t attempt it unless you’re a strong swimmer.
Instead, I take my chances on an e-bike and spin along the bank, stopping for a spritz at Grottino, a casual garden restaurant steps from the water.
Across the Aare, children are chattering as parents lay picnics under the golden hour sun. Students play volleyball, couples stroll hand in hand and I’m beginning to think that Bern is many things — but not boring.
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Switzerland’s budget-friendly secret
There is no denying that Switzerland is one of the world’s most expensive holiday destinations.
As a man called Sam observed on Reddit, ‘Switzerland is kind of like J.P. Morgan’s yacht; if you have to ask how expensive it is, you can’t afford it’.
But there are ways to save, especially in Bern.
Thanks to something called the Bern Ticket, visitors who stay overnight in the city can travel for free on public transport in zones 100 and 101. That means unlimited trams and buses to the best outdoor pools, nature parks and gelaterias (you don’t want to miss La Golosa, but be prepared to queue).
Pocket-sized walkability is one of the reasons I am enjoying Bern so much. It may be the seat of Swiss parliament, but it’s home to just 134,000 people.
Two scoops of pistachio in hand, I take a streetcar to the funicular at the base of the Gurten, Bern’s local mountain less than ten minutes from the city centre.
By Swiss standards, it’s really more of a hill. Still, the views are spectacular, and armed with my trusty ticket, a long afternoon of exploring doesn’t cost me a penny.
Star quality
The Swiss are renowned for cheese and chocolate, but in Bern I find a standard of food unmatched by anything I’ve seen in its more famous counterparts.
Hidden from view in some of Bern’s famous vaulted cellars, Wein & Sein and Kornhauskeller are well worth a visit (in the latter, order the veal and hash browns).
Nowhere is this star quality more evident than at my digs, the Hotel Schweizerhof, a historic hotel with a green and grey sandstone façade on Bahnhof Platz, metres from the main city station.
There’s a vibey lobby bar that’s popular with locals and a rooftop terrace that serves excellent cocktails with a panoramic view. But the crown jewel is Jack’s Brasserie.
The hotel’s main restaurant evokes the ambiance of a vintage French bistro: think dark wood panelling, stiff white tablecloths and achingly romantic amber lighting.
It still hangs broadsheet newspapers at the door, even though nobody seems to be reading them. Studded along the leather banquettes are tiny gold plaques with the names of celebrities who have eaten here.
I clock Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor, but Selina – the mononym behind my back – leaves me stumped. Who is she?
‘That is the name of one of our staff,’ Thiago, the hotel’s friendly and immeasurably helpful concierge is delighted to tell me. ‘We have a couple of these, dedicated to people who have been with us for a long time. Some are here more than 40 years.’
Opened in 1939 (it’s all about timing), Jack’s has weathered turbulent times, holding fast during World War II and the economic quagmire that came after it. At the tables around me, locals are gossiping over the muted sound of jazz and one family is celebrating a birthday.
The entire table has gone for Jack’s signature ‘Wiener Schnitzel’, named the best in Switzerland on multiple occasions. It’s both enormous and delicious, and the Swiss cheese starter is just as good.
As I weigh up the wisdom of ordering dessert, I get the sense that I’m dining in a living piece of history most tourists in Switzerland miss out on.
How to get to Bern from the UK
You can’t fly direct to Bern. It has an airport, but, remember we are in Switzerland, it’s mainly for private jets.
The easiest way to get to Bern from the UK is to fly from one of the major London airports to Zurich or Geneva, then take a direct train which gets you there in under an hour.
In July, return fares with British Airways start from £139, and with Swiss Airlines from £111 (plus a free chocolate).
Bern: a 48-hour itinerary
Day 1
Explore the Old Town, taking in the Zytglogge, the Minster, the Bear Park and the Rosengarten.
Walk along the River Aare, stopping for a snack at Grottino or a gelato from La Golosa.
Visit Einstein House, the museum inside the former home of Albert Einstein, and dip in and out of Bern’s quirky boutique shops.
Have a drink on the rooftop terrace of the Hotel Schweizerhof, followed by dinner at Jack’s Brasserie downstairs (order the schnitzel and a glass of Pinot Noir).
Day 2
Grab coffee and a pastry from Copain or Danieli (only open on Saturdays from 9am to 1pm).
Make for the Gurten. Hop on streetcar number 9 towards Wabern, and get off at the Gurtenbahn stop. Take the funicular up the hill and spend the afternoon wandering one of the many walking trails. It’s a good idea to bring a picnic as food at Gurten hotel is expensive (and, in my opinion, not worth the price).
OR
Try the Bernese Beer Tour, which takes in some of the city’s 200 breweries and microbreweries (more than anywhere else in Switzerland).
OR
Take the high-speed train to Zurich, a 55-minute journey that turns your stay into a multi-city break.
Head back into town and cool off with a swim in the river (if you’re capable) or in the free public pool.
Dinner at Kornhauskeller (order the veal and hash browns).
Alice Murphy was a guest of the Hotel Schweizerhof; standard rooms start from £326 per night, breakfast included.
