The ‘authentic’ Amalfi Coast alternative with all the charm but zero crowds

Standing high on the hillside, the sun shining on my face as I looked down on the picture-perfect port city of Salerno, I had an epiphany.

I’ve been to Italy several times and, while I can’t deny that the scenery is stunning, the sights aplenty and the food delicious, I never felt like I’d left my heart there.

That was, until I visited Cilento, a breathtaking area of the Campania region right next door to the heavily viral Amalfi Coast.

The bonus is, unlike its crowded neighbour, Cilento is yet to be spoiled by overtourism, so it offers a more ‘authentic’ experience of la dolce vita.

Flying into Salerno airport, slap bang between the rival coasts and just half an hour from Naples, our base was the beautiful town of Paestum, a 45 minute drive away.

It took less than half an hour to get off the plane, grab our baggage and hit the road, as the airport is still quite new, with plans to expand as word gets out about this secret Italian haven.

As I took in the landscape that stretched through seaside towns and olive-covered hills, it became clear there would be plenty to adore about Cilento.

First up, the food

I soon learn there is no such thing as a light bite in Cilento.

Every mealtime is an occasion, where wine flows and it’s normal to have plate after plate brought out. Each time you think you’ve had the best pasta of your life, another comes along and knocks it out of the park.

Cilento is the home of the Mediterranean Diet – a fact locals are very proud of – and it’s evident in their plates of fresh salads, grains and oils that cover tables, not to mention local seafood).

In Cilento, you’ll find arguably the world’s most spoiled buffalos.

At the San Salvatore 1988 Organic Farm there are around 450 of the beasts, who are serenaded with classical music to keep them chilled and happy.

And it works, as they produce creamy and delicious milk that goes into the region’s famous mozzarella (which I’m told was loved by our Queen), as well as yoghurts and desserts.

Down the road from the farm is vineyard and restaurant, La Dispensa di San Salvatore, where real-life nonnas make pasta in the kitchen, and even put on a little display at the table if you’re lucky.

My ‘lagano’ pasta was served simple, with chickpeas, oil, pasta water and a sprig of rosemary. Deliziosa.

We were lucky enough to be staying at the beautiful Savoy Beach Hotel, which has a spa and Michelin-starred Tre Olivi, run by chef Oliver Golwig.

Here, we were treated to an endless feast that included amberjack carpaccio, sea urchin pasta, and dark chocolate souffle with dried fig ice cream.

History, thrills and spills

As much as I would have loved to spend every hour eating the local produce, we didn’t come just for the food; there’s too much to explore.

HIstoric landmarks such as Arechi Castle and Castello di Rocca (which is very fancy, does great food and is where Ed Westwick got married last year), dominate the landscape, as does the Cilento and Vallo di Diano National Park. Covering 1,810 square km, it serves the perfect hiking territory.

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There’s the Archaeological Park of Paestum, a UNESCO World Heritage site renowned for magnificent Greek temples and Roman ruins.

You can either explore the area yourself or head to the nearby National Archaeological Museum for a guided insight before soaking up the history IRL.

In the nearby town of Trentinara, you can take a walk along the Path of Lovers, which takes in a mix of clifftop views and a series of seriously Insta-friendly winding streets.

The story behind the route is that of a forbidden love story, which ended with the couple throwing themselves from the cliff so they would be forever together.

Our stroll brought us to an amazing find, Paolino 848 – an effortlessly cool bar (and oh my goodness, the meatballs), spanning two floors, as well as space outside where groups can easily spill onto the street. 

If you’re after something more challenging, close by is the Cilento in Volo zip line.

Not for the faint-hearted, the 1.5km and 300m-high wire takes nearly two minutes to complete, as you soar over the lush forest of the Cilento National Park at around 120 km/ph.

On our last day, we headed into the historic port-city of Salerno, where pretty, winding streets brought us some much-needed shade and to the cathedral that holds the tombs of two saints (Gregory and Matthew).

After stopping for a delicious plate of pasta, we ended up on a bustling shopping street. Here it was busy, but the quiet seafront is just a few minutes walk and the perfect place to escape for a gelato.

Fun and sunshine

Cilento boasts over 100km of coastline, with plenty of places to soak up the sun, lie on the beach or explore a cave.

Of course, being by the sea, it’s a no-brainer to go on a boat trip. There are plenty willing to take you into the shimmering sea for sightseeing or sunseeking.

We chose to sail off from the Port of San Marco di Castellabate and in return got chilled vibes alongside views of verdant woodland, which sits beautifully against sandy beaches and rocky coves.

After a busy day of sightseeing, it was easy to forget how close we were to the beach, but we soon became big fans of the Beach Club 93, just a five minute bike ride a way from our hotel.

It felt upscale with day beds and beachfront table service, but it wasn’t too pricey.

Plus, it was the perfect place to grab a cocktail and celebrate my newfound love affair with Cilento: the hidden gem that captured my heart.