I got a massive tattoo of this UK city to prove my love

Every morning when I look in the mirror, I see my full tattoo sleeve. 

It runs from knee to ankle on my right leg, filled with parts of my favourite city in the UK that mean a lot to me. 

I can spot Castlefield’s bridges, the Beetham Tower, red brick buildings, even the doorway to Mulligans, my favourite pub. There’s a bus number, some Oasis sheet music, and a bee. 

Each part reminds me of moments I’ve spent in a place that feels like a second home – Manchester.  

It all started back in 1994, when my interest in English football began. Living in Switzerland, the only match broadcast on TV every year was the FA Cup final. Between 1994 and 1999, Manchester United won the Cup three of the four times they played it. 

I loved watching that team play. It didn’t look like the football I knew in Switzerland. Then came that amazing period with the 1999 treble – first Man United won the Premier League, then the FA Cup, followed by the Champions League mere days later.

My first visit to the city in 2010 was all about Old Trafford. 

Aged 35, I came from Lausanne in Switzerland – where I was born and still live – to see a match. I barely knew the city beyond the stadium and centre, but something about the atmosphere stayed with me. 

I liked the people, the energy. I knew I’d come back. 

And I did, later in 2010 and again in 2012. Always for football, but each time I explored more. 

I found places that felt more local. Mulligans was one of the first – an Irish pub just off Deansgate. 

I still remember walking in and loving it instantly. The music, the Guinness, the atmosphere. It felt like a place where real Mancunians go, not just tourists.  

Since then, I’ve been to Manchester over 50 times. Sometimes just for a night out, other times for weekends. I even lived there for three months in 2022 when my wife and I separated. I wasn’t doing very well and needed to take a break, step back and have some time for myself.  

I had already often come to Manchester for weekends and I wanted to take this opportunity to explore the city in more detail and take some English lessons. 

I loved spending those three months in Manchester and was able to discover a large part of the city and its history. During this stay, I also met some extraordinary people at bars and pubs whom I continue to see as often as possible. 

This changed everything. I wasn’t just visiting — I was properly living in the city day to day. I took the number 43 bus often, went to museums like the People’s History Museum and IWM North, wandered through Castlefield and the Northern Quarter, and watched the city evolve.  

One thing that stood out was how creative the city is – especially the music. You hear it everywhere, in pubs, shops, even on the street. 

Oasis obviously means a lot to me – I grew up with this band until their split in 2004 and have never stopped listening to their music. I have seen the brothers perform separately – Liam Gallagher in 2024 and Noel Gallagher in 2023.  

But I’ve also seen other brilliant musicians in Manchester like Primal Scream (2023) and New Order (2024). It’s part of why I love Manchester, it feels like it’s always expressing something. 

The people have always been a big part of my love for the city. Over time, I’ve made real friends there. I’ve had great conversations in bars and been welcomed like a regular in places I’d only visited a few times. 

The Generation Gallery on New York Street is one example – I stopped in one day and ended up chatting with the team for ages. Now I always go back and have bought several pieces.  

There have been emotional moments too. I watched the One Love Manchester concert in a bar after the Manchester Arena bombing. 

I watched the Queen’s funeral on the big screen in Exchange Square. I’ve stood in silence on Remembrance Day with strangers. Those moments stay with you.  

So when I turned 50 this year, I wanted to do something personal to mark it. A tattoo felt right.  

Manchester was the obvious theme. But I didn’t want something generic – not just the stadium or the skyline. I wanted something that reflected the little details that made the city matter to me.  

I found my tattoo artist, Bex Mavo on Instagram. She’s brilliant. She immediately understood the idea and brought her own creativity. 

We worked together on a design that blended landmarks with personal memories – Castlefield, Beetham Tower, the bricks, Mulligans, Oasis lyrics, the number 43 bus, even some Lowry-style matchstick men. All connected in one flowing piece.  

It took four sessions between December last year and May, which was about 18 hours in total. Some parts were painful, especially over bone, but Bex was great. 

She’d give me a heads-up when it was going to sting. ‘Sorry love,’ she’d say – always calm, always professional. 

The healing went well. I moisturised, followed the care instructions, and now it feels like it’s always been there.  

My friends and family in Switzerland loved it. They know how much Manchester means to me, so they understood. 

My friends in Manchester were touched, too. Some were surprised by how much was included, but they appreciated the detail. 

It’s sparked lots of conversations. People recognise things, point them out, and we swap stories. Some, not knowing Manchester, try to understand the meaning of the different parts. 

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The whole experience reminded me how deep my connection to the city runs. Manchester made me more open-minded, more curious. It gave me new perspectives and made me feel at home in a place that isn’t mine by birth, but feels like mine in every other way.  

I know I’ll keep coming back and have dreams tied to the city. I’d love to see United lift the Premier League trophy again. 

Maybe one day I’ll buy a small flat to make visits easier. And I’ve even thought about writing a French travel guide to Manchester or running French-language tours.  

For now, I share what I love through my Instagram. I post in French, mostly about culture, music, and the city’s atmosphere. 

Later this year, I’m finally going to see Oasis live again – at Heaton Park, of course.  

Whatever happens, the city’s part of me now. And I don’t just carry the memories, I wear them on my skin. 

Do you have a story you’d like to share? Get in touch by emailing James.Besanvalle@metro.co.uk. 

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