Who wants to choose between value and quality when it comes to wine? Not me, that’s for sure.
Well, it’s a good job there are winemaking regions that offer both then. But you have to be ‘in the know’ to know. You know? For example, the Languedoc in Southwest France, La Mancha in Spain and possibly the most exciting, Lisboa (Lisbon) in Portugal.
It’s this latter name that you’ll want to look out for next time you’re in the wine aisle, because wine from Portugal’s capital city is about to pop off, hot off the heals of the county’s more famous winemaking regions like Vinho Verde, Alentejo, Bairrada, Dão and the Duoro.
‘Lisboa as in, Lisbon?’ you may ask. What the salted bacalao is going on there? It’s the sort of place you’d visit on a weekend minibreak without even realising that it’s surrounded by coastal vineyards producing the most scrumptious wines of all styles and price points.
You’ll normally spot the name ‘Lisboa’ on an eye-catchingly colourful front label. It’ll be below the winery name or grape variety you half remember googling because you semi-read about it somewhere, probably in one of my columns as I bang on about it so much. It pays (literally) to bear in mind that the word ‘Lisboa’ is shorthand for an exceptional quality-to-price ratio.
The region stretches along Portugal’s western edge, all foggy Atlantic coastline and craggy hills. There’s sea mist like you’ve never seen before, or inhaled, with almost Cornish-looking coves in certain places.
A patchwork of nine subregions, all with different growing conditions and soils, Lisboa’s wine styles veer from the taut, saline whites of Brucelas to the rich and nervy reds of Colares, which feel like someone’s switched on the mains in your mouth, in a good way. There’s also juicy Pet Nats (Pétillant Naturel, but not the weird-tasting ones), traditional method sparkling wines, orange wines, organic wines and the sticky, port-like wines of Carcavelos.
So, you can see why Lisboa is quickly gaining traction as the place to chase exceptional value for money, diversity and innovation.
But why does Lisboa create such good wine?
First of all the climate, that all-important Atlantic freshness versus the fiery temperatures of the Douro or the humidity of Bairrada. And crucially, Lisboa doesn’t face the same pressures as more traditional areas like the port-producing Douro, or the comparatively commercial Alentejo.
And that’s Lisboa’s superpower which makes it a hub of experimentation, a place where prices are reasonable and a new generation of winemakers are taking risks and making wines that prioritise a sense of place over polish. There’s a kind of, ‘if it works, it works’ mentality amongst the winemakers (it usually works), who all happen to be amateur surfers in their spare time, by the way.
It’s no surprise then that the Atlantic Ocean is the region’s protagonist, its thunderous waves providing the saline ‘energy’ that courses through the region’s wines. So much so, they’re starting to add ‘Atlantic’ onto labels, which is exactly what they should be doing.
Look out for local white grape varieties like Arinto and Fernão Pires (pronounced for-now-peach), and Tinta Miúda (my fave), Ramisco and Castelão for the reds.
Make a beeline for producers like Haja Cortezia, Quinta da Boa Esperanca, Quinta da Casaboa, Manz, Quinta da Sant’Ana, Quinta do Sanguinhal, Quinta do Montalto (the organic Pim Pam Pum range is incredible), Adega Belem, Wine Stone Group, Ramilo, the list goes on. Some aren’t easy to find over here, but it’s worth seeking them out anyway.
While you’re looking those up, here are some Lisboa wines to get you started, all are £10 and under:
M&S Lisboa Bonita Branco, £8, Ocado
Talk about a needle in a haystack, white wines from Lisboa are virtually impossible to find in mainstream shops over here. Grab this with both hands and never let it go. Until you finish it, then buy another bottle. This may not be a definitive example of Lisboa’s prowess at white winemaking, but it’s refreshing, fruity, lightly saline and will give you an idea of what the region can do.
LB7 Lisboa Rosé, £8, Majestic
Majestic also do a Vinho Verde Rosé, but I much prefer this one. Lisboa’s is dryer with a lively, blood orange and nectarine guzzlability. It’s a 50/50 blend of Castelão and Cabernet Sauvignon, though I wish they’d used another native grape instead of an international one like Cabernet. There’s no need, Lisboa’s own grapes are where it excels.
Behind Closed Doors, £10, Majestic (exclusive)
Not that Lisboa is all about value for money, but this is a steal, right here. Bucket loads of complexity, juicy fruit and freshness for your buck, made by one of Portugal’s most awarded and internationally respected producers, Casa Santos Lima. Three out of four of the grapes in the blend are native, the other is Syrah. It’s a barbecue wine that can even be lightly chilled.
Waitrose Loved and Found Castelão, £9.25
Finally, a wine made 100% from a Lisboa local variety. Even better, as it’s usually only found in a blend. Castelão on its own produces soft and fruity wines with melt-in-mouth tannins and a delicious line in hedgerow fruit; think blackberries, loganberries and mulberries. This has had a few months in French and American oak to give it a suggestion of creamy vanilla too. `
