The one drink you should never order from a restaurant wine list

I don’t dine out as much as I’d like.

What with the warp-speed pace of life, work deadlines and becoming a social hermit, it’s a heck of an undertaking nowadays. Anyone else?

Don’t get me wrong, I love a restaurant, but some are like Cirque de Soleil. Tunnel-vision waiters brandishing white serviettes like matador capes, narrowly avoiding sommeliers pirouetting between tables. It’s performance art, and the most terrifying thing of all? The wine list.

It’s as daunting as flicking through a car manual when you’ve broken down on the hard shoulder, frantically fumbling for the page on how to mend your faulty big end before the sun goes down (what even is a big end and why is it always broken?).

And if that wasn’t enough to whiten your knuckles, certain sommeliers hand you the list and stand over you like you’re diffusing a bomb, bracing for impact in case you mispronounce ‘Viognier’.

Luckily, I’ve consulted with some of the best (and crucially, non-judgemental) wine professionals working in London hospitality to give us some key insider tips on choosing wine in a restaurant.

I caught up with Clara Rubin the head of wine at Hawksmoor, Thierry Thomasin the restaurant director at the Savoy Grill and Maxim Kassir, head of wine at The Aubrey in The Mandarin Oriental.

Here’s what our dream team had to say…

Priciest isn’t always the best

Clara says: ‘If you’re trying to impress your mates, don’t pick the most expensive bottle on the list, nine times out of 10 you’ll miss the good stuff.

‘Choosing something off-piste with a story shows way more confidence. It says “I’ve got taste”, not just, “I’ve got a credit card.”‘

I will add to Clara’s wise words by saying, if you clock a wine or grape you can barely pronounce the name of, chances are it’s a good one, as the sommelier will have put it there because they personally like it. It’ll be great value too.

Thierry, meanwhile, recommends simply ordering something you’d ‘genuinely enjoy’.

‘Confidence in your own taste is always more charming than choosing for show.’

Call it by it’s name

‘Don’t just order a house white wine’, advises Maxim.

‘It’s more impressive to call the wine by its actual name rather than ask for a wine with the generic description of house white/red wine. You wouldn’t call it “house food”, would you?’

It’s ok to order the first wine on a list

Thierry doesn’t see an issue with people ordering the first wine they see.

‘Yes, it’s acceptable to order the first wine on a list because a great sommelier knows how to find quality and value at every price point.’

This view is also shared by Clara, who adds: ‘At a restaurant like Hawksmoor, the first wines on a list aren’t cheap-and-cheerful throw-ins; they’re wines we’ve made with​ top-notch producers.’

Always tell your sommelier the last wine you loved — or hated

Maxim makes a memorable analogy about sommeliers, saying: ‘We’re like Spotify for wine: the more we know your taste history, the better the recommendations. And if you’re worried about being judged by your watch or your shoes… Just say what you’re comfortable spending. We’re here to match your taste.’

How do you do that subtly, though? Thierry suggests discreetly signaling a price point to the sommelier is a graceful way to stay within budget. Then say, ‘you know the list far better than I do. Could you recommend something similar?’

A good sommelier will pick up on the cue and suggest something perfect, all without drawing attention to the price.

‘It is a subtle way to offer a thoughtful, curated experience,’ the expert explains.

Likewise, Maxim advises subtly pointing to the price you’re prepared to pay on the list to the sommelier so the rest of your group can’t see

A complement will get you the best service

Maxim’s key insider tip? The best way to guarantee better drinks is to give the bartender or sommelier a compliment.

He explains: ‘If he or she is Italian, say you’ve heard they make the best Negroni in town, and they’ll put more effort into preparing your drink.’

In a similar way, Thierry recommends a ‘warm, respectful greeting’ or simply showing ‘genuine interest’ as this will often encourage the team to go that extra mile.

‘You could say to your bartender, “I like these flavours, surprise me”. This gives them room to be creative while still tailoring the drink to your taste.

‘The same goes for your sommelier. Share what you enjoy and let them take the lead. Hospitality professionals love sharing what they do. It just takes a small spark of engagement to unlock that next level of care.’

But don’t panic when trying to talk about wine. Clara urges us to remember that, ‘wine lists aren’t exam papers’.

‘Forget jargon or buzz words. You don’t need to mention blackberries or the essence of garrigue – just describe the characters you love in the way you would a person, “demure”, “outgoing”, “unapologetically massive.”’

Thierry concurs: ‘We do not expect guests to know any special phrases. It is really about going with the flow and letting the team guide you. You are here to be pampered, to relax and to create lasting memories with your loved ones. Leave the rest to us, that is what we are here for.’

Don’t mind if I do, Thierry.