We swerved a beach honeymoon for a European city break — we’re itching to go back

As one of the oldest cities in Western Europe, Lisbon’s rich history reveals itself at every turn, from ancient ruins to tiled facades and near-vertical cobblestone streets. It might sound like a strange choice, but this love letter to the past felt like the perfect setting for our honeymoon.

Some newlyweds may long for two weeks of undisturbed bliss on a sunlounger, only lifting a finger to order another cocktail.

And as parents of a toddler, we probably could have benefited from the pause.

But in this rare moment of solo time, we were also keen to savour sips of delicious wine, tuck into plentiful plates of local cuisine and immerse ourselves in the architectural beauty of somewhere new.

Lisbon ticked those boxes and then some.

Our first request was a taste of the sea, and with its proximity to the Atlantic Ocean, Lisbon is a treasure trove of delicious dishes. 

Our taxi driver urged us to head straight to Cervejaria Ramiro, a family-run institution that has been feeding locals and visitors alike for almost 70 years.

It serves things fresh. Live crabs and lobsters crawling in tanks mere feet from your head, type of fresh.

The Portuguese wine goes down well, while the huge scarlet prawns (a waiter’s recommendation) were quickly polished off. The buttery lobster rolls felt like true indulgence. If you’re facing a long wait for a table, there’s even a beer vending machine to quench your thirst.

As Londoners, we love discovering a city on foot, and Lisbon rewards with every step.

Like Rome, legend has it that the city was built on seven hills. If the steep climbs prove too much (and they are steep), you can take a more leisurely route on the iconic yellow trams, which wind through the cobbled streets and are easy to hop on and off.

The Metro system is simple to use, budget-friendly and air-conditioned, a true joy on sticky summer days.

For the best vantage point, try one of Lisbon’s many rooftop bars.

We stopped by the Hotel Mundial for a pre-dinner cocktail and panoramic views. By day, you’re treated to sights of the terracotta rooftops and sorbet-toned buildings, and by night, the streets become awash with twinkly lights and monuments illuminated with golden hues. 

Our first hotel was the Martinhal Lisbon Oriente, a five-star residence featuring a range of studios and apartments. Designed to accommodate a diverse mix of guests, it offers business centres for professionals, alongside childcare services and entertainment for families.

Just a short walk from Oriente station, it’s a little out of the main thrust of Lisbon, but the waterfront neighbourhood is fast becoming popular with young working professionals. 

Unlike the historic centre, Oriente is sleek and modern; it has the Vasco da Gama Shopping Centre, as well as waterfront restaurants and bars.

For families, it has the Oceanário de Lisboa, which is regarded as one of the best aquariums in the world.

Like many cities, Lisbon’s main square can feel like a tourist trap of overpriced eateries that don’t truly showcase its rich culinary heritage.

That being said, Praça do Comércio, or Commerce Square, is worth a visit for its stunning riverside perch and historical significance as the gateway to the city after the 1755 earthquake.

But in Lisbon, the real magic lies in discovering the hidden gems off the beaten path.

One of our favourite lunch spots was Taberna do Bairro Alto in the Misericórdia neighbourhood.

A non-negotiable recommendation from our hotel’s concierge, it appears understated from the outside, with just a few chairs scattered around a simple arched doorway, set against soft yellow walls. 

This cosy spot is beloved by locals, with delicious dishes at great prices. We devoured a generous platter of cured meats, cheeses, and olives, perfectly paired with a pitcher of crisp white sangria. 

We couldn’t visit Lisbon without a stop at the famous TimeOut market.

This vibrant food hall, set within the historic Mercado da Ribeira, is home to more than 40 restaurants and bars.

Grilled sardines are a Lisbon classic, so we tried a playful twist, opting for sardine sushi paired with a chilled glass of crisp Portuguese white wine. 

One of the standout meals of our honeymoon was dinner at the Convent Square Lisbon, Vignette Collection.

If you want a true taste of the city’s history, this iconic eatery, set within a 13th-century convent, has it woven into the walls.

The showstopping interiors only come second to the delectable choice of dishes and drinks. Celebrating the spirit of the convent’s old apothecary, the cocktail menu serves up inventive drinks inspired by ancient elixirs once crafted by monks to revive weary travellers. 

The showstopper plate has to be the Duck Arroz de Pato, a Portuguese rice that offers a smoky bite full of flavour. For an authentic taste of Lisbon in a breathtaking setting, this is the place to be.

Our second hotel was the iconic Four Seasons. This five-star hotel blends Portuguese heritage with Art Deco style, and the service is outstanding.

If you’re keen to get a workout in, there’s a gym on the top floor, as well as a 400-metre rooftop running track, so you can feel the burn with unbeatable views.

The hotel houses restaurant CURA, run by Michelin-distinguished chef Rodolfo Lavrador. Each dish is thoughtfully crafted, with every ingredient carefully chosen for its quality and flavour.

In any discussion of Lisbon, it would be remiss not to mention pastel de natas, the Portuguese custard tarts with a tantalising caramelised topping.

They can be found on every corner, but we have to give a special shout-out to the Manteigaria bakery in Baixa, and Castro in the Bairro Alto district.

It may feel like good food and wine were the main mission of our honeymoon, and to be fair, it’s not far from the truth.

But we did explore for reasons besides a culinary quest. 

If you love vinyl records, Louie Louie in downtown Lisbon has a great range, as does nearby Tubitek.

For vintage lovers, head to the Baixa district. Flamingo Vintage Kilo lets you buy items per weight and has an amazing selection of sparkly and leather jackets, while A Outra Face Da Lua is a little pricier, but well worth the rummage.

In three days, it felt like we only scratched the surface of Lisbon.

In truth, it feels like you would need months to explore its full beauty.

We didn’t even get the chance to explore the magical palaces of Sintra or watch the sunset by the Belém Tower. 

Still, we left with amazing memories, full stomachs and a strong desire to return as soon as possible.

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