From the magnificent stature of the Duomo to the naked marvel that is Michelango’s David, Florence is a living masterpiece. Most of it has been tried, tested and proven to be truly spectacular.
But there’s one place in Italy’s Unesco-protected ‘Capital of the Arts’ that remains largely undiscovered.
In the middle of August, at the height of the European summer season, I find myself on the rooftop of the Social Hub, a new hotel in Florence’s Belfiore district.
Sprawled over 7,000 square metres, this modern garden oasis towers over the historic streets, offering incredible views of the ‘old’ Florence beneath — and somehow, even in peak season, I have it almost all to myself.
On one side is a breathtaking view of the instantly recognisable Duomo, officially known as the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, which feels close enough that I might reach out and touch it.
My tour guide assures me that on the other side of the rooftop, when the time is right, another surprise awaits. I’ll have to wait a while longer but it gives me an excuse to return to floor 5 — not that I needed persuading.
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Until that moment, I am free to enjoy everything the garden has to offer, and my sights are firmly set on the larger-than-usual 50m pool, an impressive stretch of water with space to lounge around with a glass of blush pink Alìe rosé and a generous slice of pepperoni pizza from the bar.
Surprise pending, it’s time to see what this Renaissance city is all about.
Paths less-trodden
Florence is exquisite, a feast for the eyes and the mind. Its galleries house some of the most precious artwork in the world, and its walls have been home to many of the greatest names in history, from Da Vinci to Botticelli, and Dante Alighieri to the Medici.
But the paradox of this cultural wonder turned major tourist destination is that as more people flock to experience its riches, the more it risks losing what makes it so special.
Since the end of the pandemic, tourists have returned with gusto. Florence city council says 7.8 million people visited in the first nine months of 2024 alone.
And so, in my 72-hour visit, I am determined to take the path less-trodden, wherever possible.
Everyone beelines for the Accademia Gallery, where Michelangelo’s David lives. But most miss the Bargello National Museum, which – according to my research on Reddit – is often overlooked by ‘hit and run’ tourists.
Centrally located near the heart of the city, the queues are short and there’s a nice open courtyard where you can take a break from Islamic ceramics and marble sculptures.
A word of warning though, this little gem is closed every Tuesday and on the second and fourth Sundays of the month. Standard entry is €10pp.
Later, it’s ironic that on my way to see what is arguably Michelangelo’s finest work at the Accademia Gallery (prices start from approx. €27), I accidentally stumble across one of his lesser-known masterpieces.
The Basilica di San Lorenzo is often overlooked for the revered Uffizi Galleries and the Palazzo Vecchio, but it has something that other attractions don’t.
While unassuming from the outside, the church’s interior is a commanding space, with tall grey pillars towering overhead. San Lorenzo, considered to be one of the oldest Renaissance churches, is also home to Michelangelo’s Laurentian Library, where you’ll find around 11,000 manuscripts and early prints of books. The library is so special that only 10 tickets are released each day, so you’ll need to be quick if you want to get one. (€8pp).
In need of fuel, I stop off at Da’Vinattieri, a tiny sandwich stop in the shadow of the Duomo that does 10/10 schiacciata (a Florentine version of focaccia). Prices from €7 to €10.
There’s plenty of choice, and if you’re brave enough, you can try the lampredotto, a traditional street food sandwich made from cow stomach, slow-cooked in broth and doused in chilli oil.
Brave enough, I am not.
A real highlight for me is Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, billed as ‘the world’s oldest pharmacy’.
Still in business after opening in the 1200s, today it doesn’t sell medicines, but instead the most aromatic perfumes and herbal products that will kiss your skin with the most wonderfully intoxicating scents for days.
The pharmacy has original wooden cabinets elaborately painted with fruit baskets on the inside, and the chips from natural wear-and-tear over the past eight centuries only adds to the charm.
Much like Phoebe Buffay discovering her ‘authentic’ apothecary table at Pottery Barn in Friends, I feel a sense of pride in discovering something that was just a little off the beaten track (and even better that entry is free).
Still, this is my first time in Florence, and I can’t resist indulging in at least one viral trend: ordering from a modern 21st-century wine window.
You’ve probably seen the TikToks, but these bad boys are scattered all over the city and often come with a waiter standing outside, happy to oblige in the whole performance of it all, which involves you knocking on a door or pressing a bell to summon a mysterious hand that passes you a chilled glass of vino through a tiny window.
A tourist gimmick? Sure, but charming nonetheless.
Special mention must also be given to the world-famous affogato at Vivoli’s. A road less travelled it is not, but this dessert is from another stratosphere.
After wandering the cobbled streets and immersing myself in the ‘old’ Florence, I’m ready to return to the new and discover the surprise that awaits me on top of the hotel.
The grand finale
It’s edging towards evening on my final night in Florence, and while most tourists are strolling through Piazzale Michelangelo, I find a perch on the western side of the roof.
With the gently rolling Apennine mountains in the distance, the sky soon turns burnt orange as the sun sets in spectacular fashion on a glorious weekend. It’s a grand finale worth waiting for.
I was worried that skipping the viral Piazzale Michelangelo to watch the famous Florentine sunset would be a mistake, but seeing the uninterrupted view from the rooftop is unbeatable.
Plus, I didn’t have to share the moment with thousands of other tourists and their selfie sticks. Even when the sun vanishes, the skyline glows with an enormous Sturgeon Moon.
My appetites for art, culture and food are well and truly fulfilled.
Now that I’ve popped my Florence cherry, I can understand the hype for this exquisite city. There’s always a new way to experience a well-travelled destination.
The Social Hub Belfiore: the details
The Social Hub Belfiore is in the heart of Florence’s San Jacopino neighbourhood and is easily accessible from the airport; a taxi takes 15 minutes, and there are well-oiled public transport links including a silent but speedy tram that leaves you a stone’s throw from the hotel entrance.
Designed by Italian landscape architect Antonio Perazzi, the 4-star hotel sits has 550 rooms across 80,000 square metres and includes a 7,000 square metre rooftop garden that is very much the cherry on top. The rooms are simplistic, yet stylish and comfortable, with all the essentials you need.
While being given a guided tour, I was fascinated to learn about the true concept of Social Hub, which is intended to be part membership for subscribers and hotel guests, but also a space for members of the public to call their local hangout. They are able to use many of the communal spaces, making it the perfect spot for a sunset picnic.
The hotel has something for everyone, with the rooftop appealing to holidaymakers looking to top up their tan by the pool and relax, the downstairs social and child-friendly thanks to the table tennis and pool in the lobby, and several other areas targeted towards those who want to work in a comfortable environment – Social Hub Belfiore hosts a number of meeting rooms and desk space.
Once the 9-5 is done, you can head to one of the many bars and restaurants to unwind, or relinquish the stresses of the day in the state-of-the-art gym.
The dining at Social Hub Belfiore caters to the modern Italian family-style concepts, with the menu at its main restaurant, Ammodino, offering everything from hand-made pastas to a curated wine list of more than 100 labels. For something a bit more relaxed, the rooftop also features a set of street food vans where you can indulge in Korean-style chicken bites and prawn-filled brioche buns.
The details:
- 5.8km from Amerigo Vespucci Airport
- 3.1km to Santa Maria Novella station
- 2.1km to the Duomo
British Airways flies direct from the UK to Florence. The rate for a standard room in September starts from €132.
Alicia Adejobi was a guest of The Social Hub Belfiore.
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