A local’s guide to Bulgaria’s most underrated destination — the ‘Bordeaux of Eastern Europe’

Whether you’re a wine aficionado or a wine lover with a lot to learn, Melnik deserves a spot on your travel bucket list.

A walk around the smallest town in my native Bulgaria feels like stepping into a medieval fairytale.

Home to fewer than 400 people, its size is no match for its charm — Melnik is a microcosm of culture, history, and wine in narrow, cobbled streets.

Nestled in the foothills of the mighty Pirin Mountains, the tiny town is overshadowed by popular ski resorts like Bansko and Pamporovo.

But if you fancy swapping the glitz and glam for quiet vineyards and showstopper sunsets, head south towards the Greek border.

Centuries of history, a mild, Mediterranean-esque climate, and breathtaking scenery make for an intoxicating itinerary.

At the heart of Bulgaria’s winemaking tradition, Melnik’s family-run wineries produce rich reds that pair perfectly with hearty Balkan cuisine.

But what always takes my breath away is the striking beauty of the Melnik Sand Pyramids. The vast yellow cliffs resemble unfinished sand castles, providing a stunning backdrop for the quaint white houses and lush greenery.

It’s easy to see why the region is compared to Tuscany and Provence — it’s got well-established wine tourism and picturesque landscapes, without the crowds.

Here’s how to make the most of a trip to Melnik.

Sip Churchill’s favourite wines

The first stop for any self-respecting wine lover should be one (or a few) of the many family wineries in Melnik. Most are carved directly into the cliffs, keeping large oak barrels cool during the scorching summer.

Head up the steep steps to Shestaka Wine Cellar for a taste of the typical Broadleaf Melnik variety: smoky and rich, carrying hints of tobacco and leather.

I can’t claim a particularly refined palette (my go-to wine in uni was £3.14 from Asda), but I thoroughly enjoy getting tipsy on the bright local reds. Just be careful on the way down.

Don’t miss a tasting at Villa Melnik or Zlaten Rozhen, where you can sip award-winning vintages with a view over sprawling vineyards.

The owners will be sure to tell you that Winston Churchill was particularly fond of the Melnik grape and would have cases of its wine imported to the UK.

Hike up the Sand Pyramids

If you’re anything like me, you’ll want to lace up your trainers and hike into the otherworldly Sand Pyramids that guard Melnik.

The trails are fairly gentle (though you’ll want decent shoes), and the payoff is huge.

At the top, your reward is a sweeping view over the valley, terracotta rooftops, and on a clear day, a glimpse of Greece. At sunset, the rocks glow a fiery orange, giving the landscape a surreal feel.

There are a few routes you can take to get around, but if you have most of the day, I’d recommend the trail towards Rozhen Monastery.

It’s around 4km long and passes through the Pyramids and some shaded woodlands. Set aside at least a few hours, though – the photo ops are endless.

A short detour to Rozhen Monastery

If you’re not the outdoorsy type, Rozhen Monastery, one of Bulgaria’s best-preserved medieval monasteries, is just a 10-minute drive from Melnik.

The serene courtyards, wood-carved cloisters, and ancient frescoes make it worth the detour – plus the road winds right through vineyards and pyramid landscapes.

It’s still an active monastery, so expect a peaceful, contemplative atmosphere, and a well-earned break from the unforgiving sun.

Step back in time

For a taste of Melnik’s heyday, step into the 18th-century Kordopulov House, the fully preserved home of a wealthy wine merchant. It’s the largest National Revival-era house in Bulgaria, complete with colourful Venetian stained glass, intricate wood carvings, and frescoes that reflect the cultural melting pot of the time.

Beneath it, you’ll find vast stone wine cellars – and another opportunity to try some local varieties.

Eat and drink like a local

After a long day of hiking, history, and wine, the best thing you can do for yourself is sit down in one of the local taverns (mehana).

Most are family-run, with wooden beams, fireplaces, and the kind of rustic hospitality that makes you feel like you’re dining in someone’s home.

If you’re unfamiliar with Bulgaria’s culinary scene, you’re in for a treat. The locally-grown ingredients blend into a magical mix of traditional flavours as old as the country itself.

Think clay pots bubbling with kavarma (slow-cooked meat stew), Shopska salad loaded with tomatoes and sirene cheese, and platters of cured meats that demand a glass of Broadleaf Melnik red.

Try Mehana Mencheva Kashta for an authentic taste of the region – I still think about their homemade sheep yoghurt and fig jam to this day.

Whether you go for the wine, the hiking, or the history, Melnik stays with you long after you leave. So pack up your hiking boots and your sunscreen, and take a trip back in time.

Getting to Melnik

Melnik is around 86 miles (140km) from Sofia, Bulgaria’s capital. Flights to Sofia from the UK start from £27 return with Ryanair and Wizz Air.

Once you’re in Sofia, you’ve got a few options:

• Rent a car: Sofia to Melnik is around 180km – a 2h 30m drive through mountain scenery. (£10-£25 a day)
• By bus: 3+ departures daily from Sofia, around 3h 10m travel time. Tickets from €10–13 (£9–11).
• By taxi: Fastest after a flight (2h 25m), but expect £95–120 each way.

Alternatively, you could fly to Thessaloniki, Greece, and do the 140km drive from there – it takes less than two hours, and since Bulgaria is now in the Schengen zone, crossing the border is breezy.

This article was originally published on 23 August 2025 and has been updated.

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