Mention Chester to anyone in the UK, and they’ll probably think of one of the two Rs – ‘Romans’ or ‘Races’… or maybe the Zoo.
But as a proud Cestrian, I am here to tell you that there’s more to this exquisite little place than school trips and crumpled-up betting slips.
Don’t let its size fool you — there’s plenty to do in the UK’s most welcoming city.
I hope this love letter to my home of more than a decade provides you with some inspiration.
And I didn’t even mention the third ‘R’: Russ Abbot.
Meadowland river walks and woodland strolls
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A classic of the genre, walking the historic walls of Chester is a great way to begin any trip and to get a sense of the city’s geography.
This is usually followed by a river walk along the Dee via ‘the groves’, which takes you from the Old Dee Bridge down to the Boat House.
This isn’t to be discouraged. In fact, it can be a delightful way to spend a morning. However, both routes can get awfully busy with tourists, especially when the sun is shining.
If you’re looking for a waterside walk that doesn’t involve battling the hordes, heed this simple advice: cross over to the other side.
By taking the Queen’s Park or Old Dee bridges over into Handbridge and immediately taking a left, you’ll be able to stroll along the Dee at your leisure.
After a short distance, you’ll arrive at Chester Meadows, a lovely nature spot that even offers tiny bits of river shoreline and gorgeous views of the grand old houses that line the riverbank on the opposite shore.
If history is what you’re after, I’m always amazed by how many tourists miss the Roman Gardens.
Despite being easy to find (just off of Pepper Street and on the way down to the Dee), it never seems to be as busy as you’d expect, and makes for a great picnic spot, too.
Finally, if you are driving to Chester and want to visit a true local favourite, consider stopping at The Countess of Chester Country Park before heading into the city centre.
Located next to the hospital of the same name (with parking available), and particularly perfect if you have a four-legged friend with you, walking around The Countess Park on a beautiful day is just fabulous.
It’s lovingly maintained and offers more than a few ‘hidden gems’ from the poet’s corner to the woodland fairy trail.
For those with more stamina, it’s even possible to reach the old golf course through the back of the park, perfect for exploring.
Explore ‘villages’ within the city
Chester’s city centre is popular for good reason, with its famous historic ‘rows’ of two-tier shopping and an abundance of swanky coffee stops.
However, if you’re looking to get to know the city a little bit better, it’s worth heading out to one of the ‘villages’ located within the city’s limits, namely Hoole or Handbridge.
Of course, while both are technically just areas of Chester, and just a short walk from the middle of town, they offer an authentic village-like community feel.
Located right over the railway bridge of the same name (and perfect for those arriving in Chester by rail), Hoole offers its own high street packed with independent businesses, restaurants, and pubs.
Standouts include The Sticky Walnut restaurant and Usher’s Bakehouse (both run by celebrity chef Gary Usher), Okell’s Garden Centre and coffee shop, and The Faulkner pub.
On the other side of town, and across the River Dee, Handbridge also has a high street that winds its way up from the river, with a string of independent shops and pubs.
A pint at The Ship Inn, followed by a wander around Edgar’s Field Park, is a personal highlight.
Eat and drink independently, like a local
I get it. Sometimes, there’s nothing like the comfort of the familiar.
But if you can leave the cravings for Miller and Carter or Bella Italia at home, the independent food scene in Chester has so much more to offer.
Rufus Court, just off of Nortgate Street, is home to several local favourites, and might be the definition of a real hidden gem — set back from the street and easily missable unless you know where to look.
The newly opened Bread and Butter takes the crown for the best breakfast or brunch spot in Chester at the moment.
And when it comes to lunch, (and conveniently located directly opposite Bread and Butter), you have The Greenhouse.
This Mediterranean tapas spot serves excellent wine and small plates with influences from Italy, Greece, and beyond. Chez Jules, just across the road, also serves delicious French cuisine with affordable mid-week deals.
After lunch, a visit to Paysan or The Cavern of the Curious Gnome should be high on your agenda, with an incredible wine list downstairs and some brilliant draft and bottled beers upstairs.
Plus, a really, really big gnome. I’m serious, it’s worth a visit for that alone.
For something more ‘out-there’, there is the conspiracy-themed Flat Earth Bar and its delightful sister-venue Planaterra, both popular local haunts.
When it comes to dinner, honourable mentions include Upstairs at The Grill for steak, Augusto for pizza, or The Chef’s Table and Restaurant Twenty Eight for, well, just about anything.
However, last but by no means least, I would be doing you a massive disservice if I were not to tell you about Death By Tacos. Frankly, no discussion of hospitality in Chester is complete without it.
Right in the heart of the city, down Watergate Street, it’s a heavy metal-themed ‘Dive Bar and Taqueria’ with food, as the name implies, to die for.
While my personal highlight is the Valentina Honey Butter Wings, everything is good. You will not leave disappointed.
Live music and mini-festivals
While it is fair to say that Chester doesn’t have the same diversity in music offerings as Liverpool or Manchester, that doesn’t mean that it’s lacking.
It just means it has an ‘if you know you know’ quality to its music scene, and a little local knowledge goes a long way.
Following the canal for a short distance outside the city centre will bring you to Telford’s Warehouse, a local favourite for after-work pints in the sun.
With a great mix of original local acts and more established touring bands, Telfords has even famously hosted groups like Catfish And The Bottlemen on their way up the musical ladder.
Heading back into the centre, and back into Rufus Court, Alexander’s Live also offers a great mix of music options, including tribute nights, blues and jazz afternoons, and all-day festivals.
However, if you are after the top locals’ pick of the live music offerings in Chester, check out Roman Candle.
Based in the stunning, deconsecrated church that is now St. Mary’s Creative Space, Roman Candle has brought the likes of Ryley Walker, Langhorne Slim, The Handsome Family, This Is The Kit, and Michael Chapman to perform intimate shows in the city.
Cocktails in ‘secret’ bars
Despite being a small city, Chester has a couple of brilliant late-night cocktail stops, including some you’d never find without a little local knowledge.
Heading to Watergate Street, look for a bar called Liquour and Co.
While you could happily spend time downstairs in its comfortable booths or sitting at the burnished copper bar, I highly recommend asking to see ‘the caretaker’.
Space allowing, you’ll be taken upstairs and through what, at first, seems to be nothing more than a janitor’s cupboard, complete with paint tins and cleaning supplies — only for a hidden door to swing back and reveal The Cabinet Club, a suitably intimate bar with some of the best cocktails in the whole city.
Ask Rhodri for a martini, and thank me later.
Further down Watergate Street, a little slice of the 1920s lurks, hidden in the shadows. I am referring to Prohibition, a speakeasy-style bar that offers an experience that fans of the ‘Roaring Twenties’ will love.
Just like a proper speakeasy, there’s no advertising for Prohibition. No signs, no sandwich boards… and no lights.
In fact, you’ll probably have to ask a local (perhaps at the Parmar Wine Bar) to point it out or try to follow the sound of the boogie-woogie piano.
Finally, if you’re looking for something a little more lively, it’s worth mentioning that Popcorn, Chester’s largest independent bar, on St. John Street, provides a ‘dancing on the tables’ vibe until about 2am.
If that rolls around and you still aren’t done, there are still a few seedy drinking spots that mean your night doesn’t have to end.
However, for this, you really will have to ask a local. Some things really must remain secret, after all.
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