‘City of dreams’: The Spanish destination that hasn’t succumbed to mass tourism

Steeped in dark myths and bullfighting folklore, Ronda is often referred to as the ‘City of Dreams’.

Perched on a gorge around 100km from Malaga, one of the oldest – and perhaps most photographed – cities in Spain has a lot going for it.

Neolithic history, a romantic allure that has drawn poets and literary giants for centuries, and a dramatic mountaintop setting regarded as one of the most spectacular locations in the country.

Its cultural significance is as impressive as its geography, but Ronda is far from overwhelming.

As a small town, everything is within walking distance. And, while Ronda is one of the most famous of Andalusia’s ‘pueblos blancos’ (white villages), it hasn’t succumbed to the mass tourism that has crippled its coastal counterparts.

You won’t find big-name chain hotels or the breeze block high rises that cast shadows over the Costa del Sol. It still feels like ‘Old Spain’, of chalk white streets, sleepy squares and the strum of flamenco guitars.

After spending a weekend there, I fell for Ronda’s laid-back charm. Here are my tips for getting the most out of a visit to this other-worldly city.

Snap different perspectives of the Puente Nuevo

Ronda’s crown jewel is the Puente Nuevo, the bridge over the gorge which is not really new (it was built in the 18th Century).

Easily the most recognisable landmark in town, the bridge connects the old and new parts of town, and has been immortalised in the words of Orson Welles and Ernest Hemingway, who both spent several summers living in the old quarter.

It’s worth climbing uphill, or down the 200 steps to the Guaddalevín River, to get a good view of the bridge itself.

Once you’ve snapped some photos, you’re nicely positioned to plan your next move over a jug of sangria.

Tapas bar crawls

Like every Spanish destination, one of the best ways to spend a day in Ronda is bouncing between its tiny tapas bars.

Ronda’s unique cuisine is influenced by its diverse history, which includes invasions and occupations by everyone from the Celts to the Romans.

Key dishes include oxtail stew, black pudding tostadas, fried aubergine with honey and gazpacho, the iconic cold Spanish soup.

These are best enjoyed at one of the quaint little restaurants hidden under the arches of the Balcon del Tajo, a viewpoint next to the Puente Nuevo. There are a few, so it’s best to order a few light bites in each.

Right around the corner is Pura Cepa, an upscale wine bar with a beautiful terrace that’s the perfect perch for sundowners.

If you’re looking for something on the hoof, try a bocadillo with local Iberian ham. These moreish baguettes are sold in the ventas (street cafes) dotted around the Old Town, and often come slathered in tomato and garlic pulp.

Get a tourist pass and get your steps in

Ronda is around 100km inland from Malaga, which makes it a popular day trip for tourists holidaying on the Costa del Sol. There is so much to see and do, though, that it’s worth an overnight stay.

After arriving by car or by train (train is advisable if you’re prone to any kind of motion sickness; the winding roads are relentless), the town is best explored on foot.

Start from the top and work your way down through the mazelike alleys of the La Ciudad (Old Town), stopping to window shop for souvenirs along the way.

If you plan to visit a few attractions, it’s worth investing in a ‘bono turistico’, a tourist pass that gives you access to several sights for €12 (around £10.50).

Included in this are the Puente Nuevo museum and the Arabic Baths, which date back to the 13th and 14th Centuries. You can buy a pass at the tourist information kiosk beside the bullring.

Learn the history of bullfighting

While I don’t condone bullfighting, it’s worth visiting the bullring for an insight into this controversial aspect of Spanish culture.

Ronda is considered one of the cradles of modern bullfighting, which emerged in the 18th Century, but bullfighting rarely happens there nowadays (save for a symbolic event once a year)

The stone complex, which includes stables, stockyards and a small museum, is visually impressive and one of the oldest in Spain. Entry is €9 (£8).

Twin-city trips

Ronda is well-connected to bigger Andalusian cities, with rail links to Malaga and Granada, and local buses that take you to the likes of Seville for as little as £13.

I travelled on to Estepona, but there are plenty of options this a twin-city break:

• Malaga
• Torremolinos
• Seville
• Marbella
• Granada
• Nerja
• Fuengirola
• Benalmadena
• Torremolinos

Best time to visit

The best time to visit Ronda is in shoulder season, from April to June and September to October.

During these months, the weather is pleasant and ideal for walking.

I was there the third weekend in June, which is right at the start of the peak summer season, and even then, it was quiet.