The customers of the new Mandarim Lisboa are different from the classic Mandarim Estoril. Installed in the Lisbon Casino, it brings together players looking for a quick menu, diners of different nationalities and Portuguese people who want to taste real Chinese cuisine with a focus on the Cantonese aspect.
“Portuguese customers mainly order Wonton soup and Dim Sum, but we are introducing a component of Sichuan cuisine, with some spice, such as the “Szechuan Prawns” and the “Yu Xian style stewed eggplant””, explains executive chef Ku Yan, responsible for the two “Mandarins”. THE Sichuan cuisine, in particular, is known for its diversity of flavor profiles that allow for unique combinations, between spicy and sweet and sour, or fishy and peppery.
Arroz Chau Chau at Yangzhou moda
Open only for dinner, Mandarim Lisboa serves the Express Menu (€25) which includes the Starter, soup or Dim Sum, also the main dish, including beef, chicken, fried rice or pasta, and even a dessert, this being an area in which the chef scores points. Despite “not being fine dining”, he emphasizes, he considers the menu “quite complete”: “we try to make it as refined as possible and continue to offer authentic, but more modern, Chinese cuisine”.
Ku Yan states that “many Portuguese people know Chinese cuisine” and is “happy to be part of the restaurant’s customers, as are the Chinese and many other nationalities”. He is aware that “Cantonese cuisine is not as popular in Portugal”, but tries to present a “fresher version, with spinach, tomatoes, lettuce…”. Access to raw materials is easier. In addition to many Chinese and Portuguese suppliers, it also has some Spanish and French suppliers. “It’s a challenge, but it’s not too difficult for us.”
Start with dessert
We start by mentioning the last element of the meal, which ends up being the most surprising in terms of presentation and subtlety of flavors. The highlight is the “Baked pear with papaya, snow fungus, dates and honey” (€7). Although it has no flavor, snow fungus has a pleasant gelatinous texture and is commonly used for the Cantonese sweet soup, “luk mei”.
Continue with the “Tofu with almond milk and lychee syrup” and, finally, the “Mango pudding”.
Pork and Shrimp Siu Mai
Returning to the traditional steps of a meal, as a first element, it is worth highlighting that hot soups occupy a primary place on the “Mandarins” menu. In Estoril there are 10 proposals, while in Lisbon chef Ku Yan suggests four versions: “Shrimp Wonton” (€8), the favorite of Portuguese diners, “Agri-spicy with seafood”, “Sweet corn, chicken and pumpkin” and “Vegetables with mushrooms”.
In the case of steamed Dim Sum, try the “Pork and shrimp Siu Mai with crab roe” (€8) and, as for the fried Dim Sum, the “Crepes with shrimp and vegetables” (€8). In the fish seafood chapter, try the “Sour-sweet prawns” (€23) and the “Fried soft-shell crab with crumble and pepper” (€38) and “Braised seafood with yam and curry sauce” (€30). The lobster is served as sashimi, fried with breadcrumbs or with cheese and butter (150€/kg). Sea bass is the only fish suggestion and always in fillets, being crispy with balsamic vinegar or steamed with soy sauce (€30).
The “Chau-Chau Rice” appears “in the style of Yangzhou” (€15), UNESCO’s Creative City of Gastronomy, and can be a dish in itself or complemented with one of the meat dishes such as “Sautéed beef with oyster sauce” (€22).
Beef with oyster sauce
Sought after by Mandarim’s loyal customers and tourists, the famous Peking Duck couldn’t be missed (€75) and remains on Lisbon’s menu. Ordering this dish is like enjoying a performance moment during dinner. The duck arrives on a cart, whole, ruddy, with shiny red skin due to the seasonings and juices preserved by the roasting method. It is served in two or three moments. Cut the duck into thin slices, separating the meat from the skin, which can be enjoyed together or separately, depending on preference. First the “Pancakes, cucumber and leek and duck sauce” arrive, then it is usually chopped and sautéed served in lettuce leaves, and you can opt for a “Duck soup with mustard sauce and tofu”. Thirdly, we suggest “Duck with pineapple and ginger in sweet and sour sauce” or sautéed with black bean and pepper sauce.
To accompany the meal you can choose tea, first of all, the most recommended, as well as Chinese beers, but naturally a selection of wines and cocktails is available.
Mandarin Lisbon
Eduardo Montenegro
As for the environment of the Mandarin Lisbon (Alameda dos Oceanos – 45 – Casino Lisboa, Lisbon. Tel. 214667270), its decoration pays homage to Chinese culture, both in the furniture, fabrics and lighting, presenting, however, a modern reinterpretation in terms of style, using neutral and earthy tones complemented by notes of more traditional colors such as burnt red and matte gold. It is located in a privileged, more reserved area, on the 2nd floor of the Casino, close to the main entrance of the Auditorium dos Oceanos.
Executive Chef Ku Yan
Of Malaysian origin, the chef He began his career in Kuala Lumpur, where he came into contact with Cantonese cuisine. He passed through Dubai, Switzerland, Australia, Germany and has been in Portugal for six years. The kitchen team is made up of members of multiple nationalities, including Chinese, Portuguese and Nepalese. The challenge, according to Ku Yan, “was to train the teams to prepare authentic Chinese cuisine because they are cultures with very different cuisines”. However, the chef does not rule out, in the future, “taking advantage of the contributions from the cuisines of the team members’ countries of origin” and even creating “some fusion dishes with Portuguese cuisine”. For now it announces that it will make small changes depending on the season, but taking into account that Mandarim Lisboa recently opened its doors, on September 5th, “there will always be small changes”. He will certainly prepare some themed menus on certain weekends and has on his agenda to create special proposals for the Chinese New Year, as well as the Autumn Festival.
Mandarin Lisbon
Eduardo Montenegro
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