As a first-time European traveler (what can I say, I apparently only vacation in Spanish-speaking countries), it might seem a little strange that I opted to visit a famous ski town without a trace of snow on the ground. The lifts were still spinning, but instead of down jackets and goggles, I saw hordes of trail runners in neon Lycra gliding through flower-lined streets. No clattering après-ski crowd, no icy gusts whipping my face—just the French Alps stretching out like something between The Sound of Music and The Lord of the Rings.
The last week of August in Chamonix is something of an anomaly. With the Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc (UTMB), a prestigious trail-running race and week-long festival in full swing, the streets fill with ultra-athletes from every corner of the globe. Instead of skis, there are carbon-fiber poles. Instead of champagne toasts, electrolyte gels and cold beers. For a week, Chamonix feels like the world’s fittest block party—but step away from the race crowd, and the town reclaims its quiet charm.
With just 8,600 residents tucked between the French, Italian, and Swiss Alps, Chamonix hits that sweet spot: small-town vibes, jaw-dropping mountain views, and just enough English spoken to keep non-French speakers from fumbling over a cheese order. From sun-soaked terraces to alpine views that make every photo worth framing, Chamonix offers more than just a getaway. Here’s everything you need to know before you go.
Where to Stay in Chamonix
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Chamonix has no shortage of accommodations, whatever the season. I stayed at the Chalet Hôtel Le Prieuré & Spa, a quaint hotel perched just on the edge of the town’s hustle and bustle. While it’s not smack in the center (which I appreciated for obvious noise reasons), it’s still just steps from cafés, trails, and the lifts.
Step inside, and the lobby sets the tone: intimate, warm, and effortlessly welcoming. A small sitting area invites you to linger over a double espresso, a glass of wine, or a quick game of pool. The rooms continue the story with wood-paneled walls and a mix of earthy and cool tones that complement the large windows framing the mountains just outside.
If you want something a touch more indulgent, walk down to the charming spa equipped with an outdoor sauna, massages, and a small indoor pool, rounding out a stay that’s understated yet ultra-relaxing.
Where to Eat in Chamonix
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Le 3842
To truly experience Chamonix, you have to dine at Le 3842. Perched atop the Aiguille du Midi at 3,842 meters, it overlooks the Chamonix valley in every direction. While the cafeteria handles the basics, the main dining room steals the show—where top-of-the-mountain ruggedness meets Ralph Lauren: dark woods, moody emerald tones, black-and-white mountain photos, and plaid carpeting that somehow works on the wobbly floor.
The menu keeps pace with the view, blending Alpine and European flavors. Highlights include golden potato fritters with burratina and pesto rosso, a plate of local cheeses, and Alpine terrine with dried fruit chutney. Every bite feels elevated, perfectly matching the drama outside the windows.
Le Cap-Horn
Le Cap-Horn was my final stop of the week, and it didn’t disappoint. The interior hits that sweet spot between mountain lodge and sailor’s hideaway: floor-to-ceiling windows frame the peaks, while wood and stone accents give the space warmth and character. During winter, the restaurant even transforms into a club, with a DJ spinning on the mezzanine and the second row of tables doubling as a dance floor—proof that Chamonix balances epic views with unexpected fun.
Chef Fredrik Darenius crafts a menu that seamlessly blends French and Japanese influences. Standouts include seared miso-glazed Scottish salmon with melt-in-your-mouth crab-crushed potatoes and edamame, all topped with green onions. Dessert leans equally inventive, with vodka rhubarb infused tipsy cake with crème anglaise and vanilla ice cream. Every dish is both playful and precise, a true reflection of the Chamonix spirit.
Related: This French Alps Hotel Is Known for Skiing—but It’s My Go-To Summer Getaway
How to Spend a Summer Week in Chamonix
Hike to Lac Blanc
Madison Freeman
There are endless things to do in Chamonix, but if you do nothing else, make it a hike on one of the amazing trails. Summer doesn’t bring snow to the valley, so skiing is out, but it’s the perfect time to take in the views without strapping on ice cleats. My top pick is the trail to Lac Blanc. Labeled relatively easy by locals and Strava, the 3.8-mile route still packs a serious incline. To get there from Chamonix, take the train or a short drive to Les Praz, ride the cable car up to La Flégère, then hop on the Index chairlift and start the hike from the top. Challenging as it is, the payoff is unreal with jagged peaks, turquoise alpine waters, and vistas so breathtaking you can barely process them in the moment.
Ride the Montenvers train
If hiking boots and trail runs aren’t your thing, Chamonix still delivers. The Montenvers train, in service since 1908, climbs out of the valley and winds around the mountains on one of the most scenic rides in the Alps. From your seat, you’ll spot hikers weaving along trails, glaciers clinging to the cliffs, and the town shrinking to a toy village far below. It’s all the payoff of a big alpine climb, without the sweat of a hike or the vertigo-inducing sway of a cable car.
Take the Cable Car to Aiguille du Midi
Madison Freeman
If heights make you nervous or altitude hits you hard, the Aiguille du Midi might not be your scene. This 3,842-meter peak in the Mont Blanc massif towers over Chamonix and is reached by a cable car that’s as thrilling as it is breathtaking. As you climb, the lush green fields and wildflowers vanish, replaced by jagged stone spires, biting winds, and a cold that seeps into your bones. By the time you reach the top, it feels almost otherworldly, a raw, vertigo-inducing glimpse of the Alps that stays with you long after you descend.
