Sandwiched between Marbella’s blinged-out boutiques and the millionaire’s playground of Sotogrande, you’d be forgiven for thinking that Estepona is one of Spain’s most exclusive resorts.
But rather than leaning into the elite urbanisation of its luxury neighbours, this humble town has preserved its identity as a traditional ‘Pueblos Blanco’ — one of the ‘White Towns of Andalusia’.
Spanning a 21-kilometre stretch of golden coastline, Estepona is steeped in history.
What was once a site believed to have been occupied by the Romans is now a picturesque holiday spot, with a palm-lined promenade, traditional Spanish tapas bars and a micro-climate that bathes the streets in 325 days of sunshine each year.
Andalusia’s popularity is nothing new. In 2023, over 12 million international tourists flocked to the region, with most heading to hotspots such as Málaga, Marbella, Granada and Seville.
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But only 253,376 – just over 2% – stopped in Estepona, despite it coming second in the European City of the Year awards last year. Now I know why I never had to fight for a sunbed.
Getting to Estepona
Like the rest of the Costa del Sol, Estepona is easy to reach. I flew from Manchester to Málaga, where a return trip with easyJet came to just under €121 (£100).
Budget airlines including Wizz and Ryanair also fly to Málaga from UK airports, with one-way trips costing as little as €25 (£21) in low season.
From Málaga-Costa del Sol Airport, it’s a one hour drive to Estepona. A taxi will set you back around €100 (£83), but if you’re on a budget a direct bus also runs from the airport to Estepona Bus Station. Tickets cost between €8 (£6.60) and €14 (£11.50), with a journey time of 70 minutes. This service is limited to six buses throughout the day, so try to plan your flight around the transfer if possible.
Andalusia’s best kept secret
I visited Estepona in May 2023, six months before it came second in the European City of the Year awards.
The Andalusian gem was commended for improving quality of life through initiatives such as ‘Estepona, Garden of the Costa del Sol,’ and the pedestrianisation of the Old Town.
What Metro readers think
Valerie Hill: ‘Just came back from Estepona. What a huge renovation of the town. I love it there, stayed in a beachfront accommodation with two steps into the lovely town.’
Alexandra Aldous: ‘We loved Estepona when we first saw it in 2000 and could not match it. We settled there, buying our casa in 2002 and settling down in 2003. There have been no regrets.’
Jamie Howes: ‘There are some cracking little beach towns all the way along the train line from Málaga.’
On the accessible walk from Playa de la Rada beach to Estepona’s blue and white marina, the roadside overflows with shrubs and palm trees. The small whitewashed houses of the Old Town are decorated with bright pink flowers (Bougainvillea) and polka-dotted plant pots.
The floral spectacle reaches a stunning crescendo in the Plaza de las Flores, a square in the centre of town, where hundreds of flowers bloom around a Baroque fountain.
It’s also where tourists flock for lunch to soak up the quintessential Andalusian vibe. There are four main tapas bars in the square, and it doesn’t matter which one you go to. All are almost always busy, and the waiters have a respectful camaraderie between them, whereby if they’re full, they’ll direct you next door and vice versa.
We sat at La Sureña, a traditional tapas restaurant where buskers play flamenco music on guitars. We enjoyed a selection of Patatas Ali-oli, Pinchito de Pollo, Jamón Serrano, Salchichas al Vino, and Enslada de Bocas for €12 (£9.90). In hindsight, I should’ve ordered more considering the quality of the food and minuscule price.
Due to the weather (in May, temperatures hit a comfortable 23°C), it would have been rude not to indulge in Sangria or two at a cost of just €9 (£7.40) per jug.
Further into the Old Town, the narrow streets are filled with relics of Arab rule. Moorish control of the region lasted over five centuries, ending only in 1456 following a raid ordered by Henry IV of Castile.
This historic quarter is where you’re more likely to find locals sipping on beers in smaller, casual tapas bars dotted on street corners. But don’t feel intimidated – they’re more than happy to welcome you while you take a shade break from the beating sun.
Miles of golden beaches
Perhaps the most famous feature of Estepona is its glorious 12-mile stretch of sand beaches, which never get as busy as seasides in Puerto Banús or Marbella.
Unspoiled and undervisited, you can sunbathe all day without being disturbed. Simply pay between €5 (£4.13) to €10 (£8.26) for a sunbed and lie back.
A day at the beach in Estepona is best broken up by a stop at one of its many beach bars. All are relatively casual and allow you to drink and dine in swimwear. Just make sure you cover up if you head inside to use the facilities.
We piled into Havana Beach Bar, a quirky spot with turquoise interiors and upcycled surfboards. My sister and I shared grilled salmon straight from the BBQ and a couple of large beers as we drank in the view of the shimmering ocean.
Bring extra cash
Beach bars can be more expensive than establishments further inland, as you’re also paying for the view. So be aware you might need to shell out more. For example, it was around €17 (£14) for grilled salmon. When you compare that to our tapas lunch, you can feel the pinch.
Into the mountains
Estepona is surrounded by some of Spain’s most spectacular natural wonders, which you can easily explore depending on how long you’ve got.
I’d recommend a day trip to Ronda, one of the country’s UNESCO World Heritage sites. About an hour’s drive inland, you’ll find the mountaintop city set dramatically above a cavernous gorge.
You can read our Travel Editor’s guide to Ronda here.
It’s best to hire a car for the journey, as taxis can be expensive. But if you’re happy to shell out between €140 to €170 (£115 to £140) for a round trip, you won’t regret your choice.
The gorge (El Tajo in Spanish) separates Ronda’s 15th-century ‘new’ town from its old town, which dates back to Moorish rule. The stone bridge (Puente Nuevo) allows walking access to both parts and is the perfect spot for photos.
Folkore and traditions
Tradition is a serious business in Estepona, and none more so than its many festivals. During our visit, the San Isidro Labrador harvest celebration was in full swing. Locals gathered to visit the San Isidro shrine in the Los Pedregales Park, and farmers rode through the town in tractors decorated with hay, flowers, and seasonal fruit.
In true Spanish spirit, music is at the heart of these community events. Swarms of Flamenco guitarists were accompanied by traditional dancers, who encouraged locals and visitors to join in.
Other traditional festivals include Los Reyes (the Three Kings at Christmastime) on January 5, where the ‘royal majesties’ parade through Estepona town with an entourage of locals waving from trucks. There’s also the ‘Feria,’ the annual summer fair during the first week of July. Here, you’ll see local women wearing traditional feria dress and men in ‘traje corto‘.
No matter your holiday taste, Estepona has something for everyone. I fell in love with its charm and extraordinary culture. I only hope future Costa del Sol travellers take a chance on this less-frequented town, too.
Where to stay in Estepona
Estepona isn’t huge so everywhere is within walking distance. This means it doesn’t matter which part of the town you stay in. Instead, think about what you want from a hotel or accommodation.
For those who like sea views and luxury, the four-star Hotel El Pilar Andalucia is located within 300 metres of La Rada Beach. Rates start from €140 (£116) per night. Alternatively, Mare Estepona Hotel, near La Rada Beach and El Cristo Beach offers three-star accommodation at just €60.55 (£50) per night.
In the Old Town, The Old Town Boutique Hotel offers an adults-only holiday, where rooms start at a steeper €218 (£180) per night. Again, in the same area but cheaper, the Estepona Old Town Beach is available at just €56.90 (£47) per night.
Airbnb and Booking.com also offer a variety of private apartments across the town, which are great if you’re planning a trip to Estepona with friends.
This article was originally published on 26 December 2024 and has been updated.
