I’m sailing over a cerulean sea, glass of champagne in hand, with three men I’ve just met. Around us are black sand beaches, thundering waterfalls, and craggy mountains bursting with 50 shades of green.
It looks a lot like Pandora, the fictional world of Avatar, but this is Madeira, a Portuguese archipelago north of the Canaries.
Marooned in the Atlantic, this cluster of volcanic rock is rightfully nicknamed the ‘Hawaii of Europe’.
And it’s becoming a popular holiday choice — easyJet now runs year-round direct flights from London, Manchester and Bristol.
It’s an easy adventure. Three-and-a-half-hour flights are shorter than to the Canaries, and while Madeira is certainly not a secret, its eye-popping pebble beaches remain unspoiled, for now, at least.
A fast-growing tourist destination
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A cross between paradise and an adventure playground, Madeira is drawing more visitors than ever. In 2023, it welcomed over 1.7 million, a sharp rise from 1.1 million in 2021.
Since Covid, social media has fuelled Madeira’s popularity, with thousands of posts spotlighting so-called ‘hidden gems’ across the island.
Alexandre Von Essen, a skipper for Happy Hour boat tours, says that many off-beat places he used to visit as a teenager now attract thousands of tourists per day.
‘It’s cool that we have so many visitors,’ he says. ‘But it’s definitely strange.
‘Before the pandemic, it was mainly pensioners visiting. You’d have rich old ladies, they’d stay at the Ritz and spend loads of money.’
Now there’s an influx of travellers of all ages — especially those who wish to explore and discover. And there’s so much for nature lovers to appreciate.
Nicknamed the ‘Pearl of the Atlantic’ in the 1930s for its breathtaking scenery, Madeira has long relied on tourism to fuel its economy.
But even with viral travel guides and post-Covid wanderlust, Madeira has so far been spared the overtourism chaos seen in parts of Spain and European cities like Prague.
A place for slow, sustainable travel
During a tour of the island with Hugo, from Adventureland tours, we visit Fanal Forest, a misty laurel woodland that looks straight out of a fairytale.
He’s so protective of his homeland’s beauty spots that he refuses to reveal some remote locations, unless tourists promise not to share pictures of them online. ‘I want people to really appreciate it,’ he says.
All credit to him, because Madeira does feel calmer than other popular tourist destinations.
The volcanic rock pools are still relatively quiet, even during the lunchtime rush, and Seixal beach – a stretch of black sand hugged by vibrant, jungle-like cliffs – looks like something from a dream, even with countless other visitors taking pictures along its shores.
The capital Funchal is replete with traditional mercearias, old grocery stores that once served as places to shop and socialise. They still sell everything from local beer and wine to baby powder, sweeping brushes and chewing gum.
Bento’s Grocery, for instance, has been in the Bento family since 1974. It has a rustic charm and is filled with local people at all times of the day.
It’s also a great place to try Poncha, a traditional drink made from sugarcane rum, honey and citrus juice. It was originally drunk by sailors as a tonic to ward off scurvy. Now, you can get it at any bar and restaurant across the island in almost any flavour you can think of.
Madeira is also known for its world-class seafood. I tried a tuna cornetto, which is much tastier than it sounds. You’ll also find mouthwatering prawn dishes, octopus and limpets, usually served with garlic and butter.
And don’t leave without trying a banana passion fruit, a local favourite unlike anything you’ll find in the UK.
For foreign visitors, prices are incredibly reasonable. A cup of coffee and a chocolate at most local cafes will set you back as little as €2. Alcohol is similar, with a pint typically between €1 to €3, while a Poncha is between €3-€6.
At the same time, Madeira is working to attract a more luxury crowd. It’s become popular with digital nomads and long-stay travellers who stay at the island’s more upmarket hotels.
Sleek wellness centres are popping up to match demand. In the capital Funchal, I stopped by CoolZone, the world’s largest Cryotherapy centre, which features a -110C chamber and infrared rooms.
The state-of-the-art treatment focuses on longevity and caters to travellers looking to reset and relax, rather than rush around.
And that’s how the island should be enjoyed.
Madeira’s magic is undeniable.
From its cloud-covered mountain peaks to rugged coastlines, it’s made for slow and sustainable travel. The kind that locals are happy to share, as long as you take it all in, and actually be there.
And, even though I’ve only just scratched the surface, I already know I’ll be back.
Where to stay in Madeira
I was hosted at The Vine hotel by Visit Madeira, where standard rooms start from €265.70 per night. The hotel is in the heart of Funchal, with the city’s best restaurants and attractions right on your doorstep.
Santa Caterina Park, which boasts a lake and views over the bay, is just a five minute walk away, as is Funchal Cathedral, built in the 15th century.
Funchal’s Farmer’s market is a must visit in the city, full of exotic fruit, spices and knick-knacks and is just a 10 minute walk from the hotel.
The hotel’s rooftop features a sleek infinity pool with panoramic views of the city and hills. You can also enjoy the scenery from its rooftop restaurant or bar.
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