I stayed at the hidden luxury hotel that’s housed exiled royals

Metro Checks In to Hartwell House, a fascinating home with royal history.

Aylesbury doesn’t immediately conjure up images of luxury, and I say that as someone who lives just up the road. Until recently, I thought the best thing about the place was the big Dunhelm, conveniently close to the big B&Q.

But hidden just outside of the Buckinghamshire town lies Hartwell House and Spa, a Grade I-listed stately home that’s fit for a king, quite literally.

Now owned by the National Trust, the house served as the exile residence of King Louis XVIII of France in the early 1800s. It still hums with the grandeur of its past, with chandeliers sparkling above sweeping staircases and portraits of powdered nobles gazing down from oak-panelled walls.

The hospitality also feels royalty ready, with service so seamless, it borders on telepathic. Water is topped up, before you’ve reached for the glass. After dinner, you’ll return to find the curtains drawn and a face mask on your pillow. And if you pop your shoes outside your door in the evening, they’ll be polished by the night porter while you sleep.

During a 24-hour stay, I had everything I possibly needed, before I’d even thought to ask for it. If this is how the royals live, I can see why they’re so keen to cling on to their titles…

What’s the vibe? 

Antiques, everywhere. 

The stately home has been painstakingly restored after a fire destroyed much of its original architecture in the 60s. It’s now a spectacular time portal, with Georgian and Jacobean elements, including centuries-old chairs you’re not even allowed to sit on.

You’ll be greeted by a very knowledgeable and eager concierge, ready to give an enthusiast tour of the house’s history.

The shared spaces are either gloriously peaceful and or a little too quiet, depending on your view. My husband and I enjoyed playing backgammon in the library while perusing the cocktail menu, but we did find ourselves speaking in hushed tones, almost like a library. 

The main house feels formal, (no kids under 6. No trainers, tracksuits and shorts at dinner), but it manages to sit on the right side of stuffy thanks to the welcoming, smiley staff. 

What about the facilities? 

Hartwell’s spa is tucked away in the house’s orangery. It’s more modern than the main hotel, but maintains timeless elegance with rich terracotta walls and statues inspired by ancient Greece. 

Don’t expect endless thermal suites or fancy gimmicks, but I’d choose this simple spa any day over the crowded Champneys in nearby Tring. 

During our visit, we had our pick of the loungers, and had the pool entirely to ourselves for a couple of hours. There’s also a jacuzzi, a steam room and a modest sauna, plus a handful of treatment rooms where therapists deliver a wide range of massages, facials and nail treatments.

The adjoining ‘members lounge’ – accessible to all spa guests – is a nice touch, with tea, coffee and fruit available throughout the day. Just like magic, a plate of melt-in-the-mouth brownies appeared, seconds after I’d mentioned feeling peckish. 

Aside from the spa, there’s a small gym, but we preferred to get outside, where there are 90 acres of landscaped gardens to explore. 

Okay, so what are the rooms like?

The scale of the room is what really sets it apart from more modern hotels: it’s absolutely bloody enormous. 

We’re not even in one of the biggest four-poster suites, and yet we have a huge bed, sofa, dressing table, writing desk, double wardrobe and chest of drawers at our disposal. The tall windows are the standout feature, framing sweeping views of the manicured grounds. 

In keeping with the rest of the house, there are paintings, pelmets and frills aplenty. The greige-loving influencers would hate it. I think it’s fabulous. 

As expected from a hotel of this caliber, the bed was five-star comfortable and I was tempted to sneak the fluffy white robe home in my suitcase.

Can you eat and drink at the hotel?

Dinner at Hartwell isn’t about culinary fireworks — and that’s precisely its charm. The menu leans into British classics, executed with confidence. My twice-baked cheese soufflé was light as air yet satisfyingly rich, while my husband’s beef Wellington was textbook perfect: buttery pastry, tender pink fillet, and a glossy jus that could be bottled and sold.

I could only manage a sorbet for pudding, as we’d boldly chosen to have afternoon tea earlier that day. That menu has everything you’d expect, again, done well. The beef, tomato and horseradish sandwich was my favourite, followed by an oat biscuit topped with honey bavarois, elderflower curd and lemon glaze.

Breakfast the next morning was equally traditional, and as someone with a sweet tooth, I did miss the inclusion of pancakes or waffles you get at most high-end hotels these days. Instead I settled for avocado on toast, while my husband tucked into a kipper – something I’ve not seen on a hotel menu this decade.

Hartwell House doesn’t chase trends, and you have to admire its commitment to heritage.

How much does it cost?

Room at Hartwell House Hotel and Spa start at £275 per night, including breakfast and full use of the spa facilities. 

Spa days at Hartwell start from £145 per person Monday to Friday, or £160 per person at weekends, including one 55-minute treatment. 

The traditional afternoon tea costs £44.00 per person (£46.00 per person on Bank Holidays), but you’ll need to pay extra for bubbles. 

Dinner is two courses for £68 per person, or three courses at £84 per person, excluding drinks. Wine starts at £8 by the glass, most cocktails cost £17.50. 

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