I’ve travelled all over Canada, but nothing compares to its ‘ocean playground’

My travels across Canada have rewarded me with everything from sweeping mountainscapes to vibrant city life, but nowhere captured my heart quite like Nova Scotia — the ‘ocean playground’.

Thrashed by the wild swells of the North Atlantic, this tiny Maritime province on the country’s eastern tip is shaped by the sea.

As one lifelong Nova Scotian resident tells me: ‘Water is physically in our blood.’

With its dramatic cliff faces, salty fishing towns and craggy hiking trails, Nova Scotia feels refreshingly rugged. But there’s a wealth to explore beyond its natural wonders.

It’s where the Cajun people of Louisiana’s bayous originated and where Irish immigrants landed after fleeing the famine. It’s home to candy-striped lighthouses, a lush wine-growing region, six UNESCO World Heritage sites and a blossoming food scene fuelled by world-class seafood.

But since it remains relatively unexplored, the waterfronts and villages are quieter than any of the four Canadian provinces I’d visited before — so much so that there were times when I was the only person in sight. 

There’s never been a better time to experience all that Nova Scotia has to offer. Here’s everything I saw and did in a six-day trip.

Tasty seafronts and mythic lighthouses

Travelling from the UK, most of you will be flying into Halifax, Nova Scotia’s capital. The best of the region lies outside the city, but there are still a few places worth visiting before you venture out.

I enjoyed the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia, which contains the entire painted home of famed folk artist Maud Lewis and insightful exhibits on the indigenous Mi’kmawq community.

Halifax’s fine-dining scene is a real treat for food lovers. A local recommendation is Tribute, a seasonal grilled restaurant known for its hand-rolled pasta and smoky fish ($105/£56 for a tasting menu).

Nearby Mystic offers an immersive experience that will leave your tongue tingling (even the buttered radishes were seasoned to perfection).

Finally, a good half-day trip from Halifax is Peggy’s Cove, a quaint cliffside town home to 35 residents and a working lighthouse that looks like something straight out of a 19th-century novel.

It’s only a 40-minute drive each way, so you could easily cover it off in a morning.

Mahone Bay

Where to begin with Mahone Bay.

This vibrant seaside town is packed with charm, and my time exploring its colourful streets and magnificent outskirts was the highlight of my time in Nova Scotia.

I stayed in Black Forest Cabins ($239 or £129 minimum per night), a farmhouse retreat hidden among trees but close to restaurants and pubs to try while you’re visiting.

The cabins are a two-minute walk from the Bay-to-Bay trail, which you can bike or walk. I spent the evening surrounded by birdsong, undisturbed by anyone, reading a book on a bench by a babbling stream.

The Black Forest is a great base to explore the surrounding area. Culture vultures can visit filming locations for TV shows such as Solomon’s Crossing and We Were Liars. 

Elsewhere, the turquoise water of St Margaret’s Bay is perfect for wild swimming, while Chester village also has a beautiful natural saltwater pool.

If you prefer to stay on dry land, I recommend booking a tour of the small islands hugging this part of the coast with Salty Dog Sea Tours ($86/£46 per adult). 

Not only do you get the history of the famed Oak Island (the subject of a 12-season-long reality TV show thanks to 250-year-old rumours of treasure), but if you ask, you might get a chance to do some seal and shark spotting like we did.

There’s nothing like feeling salty air in your hair as you bounce along the waves.

Kejimkujik National Park

This sprawling national park ($6.50/£3.50 for a day pass) is the perfect way to spend anything from a day to a week-long camping trip.

At Mills Falls, a spectacular natural waterfall that’s easily accessible on foot, you can swim and sunbathe.

Thrillseekers can paddle along the streams, and hikers will find plenty of viewpoints to pitch up at.

If you’re interested in learning more about the Mi’kmawq community, the park offers guided tours with local elders who explain the deep relationship between the community and the land.

Avoid Friday and Saturday when the park is at its busiest. I visited on Sunday afternoon, and it was practically deserted.

The Evangeline Trail

The Evangeline Trail meanders for 292km of scenic roadway, past rolling hills and green fields along the Western and Northern parts of Nova Scotia.

You’ll need to rent a car for this one, but if you or someone you’re travelling with can drive, it’s worth it.

This part of the province prides itself on being the ‘land of Orchards, Vineyards and Tides’, so there are plenty of eye-catching stops along the way to break up the journey and stretch your legs.

My favourite was Bridgetown, often referred to as the prettiest village in Nova Scotia.

Seafood lovers should visit Hall’s Harbour lobster pound, which has a restaurant on-site that serves 1.5lb lobster meals for $40/£21. I saw one man tucking into a seven-and-a-half-pound giant, with a personalised bib.

Wolfville and Grand Pre

Grand Pre National Historic Site ($9/£4.80 per adult) is a must-visit for history lovers to learn more about the native Acadian community and mythology.

You can spend the night in this UNESCO World Heritage Site as you explore the local vineyards and acres of lush greenery for $133.25/£61 per night.

Nearby is Wolfville, home to Nova Scotia’s burgeoning wine scene. It’s yet to be exported worldwide, so visiting is your only chance to taste the real deal (I’d recommend tasting the local special, Tidal Bay)

Domaine de Grand Pre Winery, a family-run business, is just one of many you can visit for a tasting and their onsite restaurant, Le Caveau (chef’s tasting menu is $80 or £43), is home to the most delicious food I tasted all trip. 

For a picture-perfect viewpoint, the nearby Evangeline Inn has a deserted lookout to steal a dreamy summer moment (and pretend you’re Anne Shirley as I did).

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