Tucked away on Mexico’s border with Belize, far from the thumping beach clubs of Cancun and the busy resorts of Tulum, lies a quiet lakeside town where nature is still in charge.
It’s a place that looks like a painting: the surface of the Laguna de los Siete Colores shimmers in the morning sunlight, painting the water in vibrant strips of turquoise, jade and indigo.
Bacalar moves to a slower rhythm than its Quintana Roo counterparts. There are no high-rise hotels or spring break crowds, just overwater docks that stretch into the lagoon and mangroves that form natural barriers between land and lake.
Hammocks sway gently in the breeze, and soft ripples trail behind passing paddleboarders and early-morning swimmers.
It’s a prehistoric paradise, relatively untouched by progress and as authentic as they come.
Our reporter Saffron Leggatt went to Bacalar and shares why it deserves a spot on your bucket list.
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Despite justified comparisons to the Maldives, you won’t find any ocean here. Laguna Bacalar, or the Lake of Seven Colours, is the town’s main drawcard.
The lake, which is part of the world’s largest freshwater underground system, has a white limestone basin fed by cenotes. The colour of the water is determined by the depth of each cenote, but all of it is crystal clear.
This natural wonder is home to stromatolites, layered living rocks that are the most ancient fossils in the world. Formed by the growth of bright blue and green cyanobacteria, they are responsible for the production of breathable oxygen and multicellular life (both fascinating and hard to fathom), and in Bacalar, you share the water with them.
Away from the lake, from Mayan ruins to street markets, Bacalar has a rich cultural scene. And while its nightlife is pretty low-key, there are some incredible food spots and a handful of bars to keep you fed and watered in the evening.
Things to do in Bacalar
1. Take a boat tour
Whether you choose to rent a kayak and explore at your own pace, set sail across the calm waters, or join a guided boat tour led by knowledgeable locals, spending time on the lagoon is truly unforgettable.
Glide through the famous seven shades of blue, where the colours shift before your eyes. Discover hidden underwater cenotes, take a refreshing dip in the freshwater (no salty sting), and search for those ancient stromatolites to see Earth’s earliest life form firsthand.
To protect these spectacular natural phenomena, the lagoon has a ‘day of rest’ on Wednesdays, when no boat tours or water activities are allowed (but you’re still welcome to take a dip).
Keep an eye out for signs that will tell you how you can help to preserve the natural environment.
2. Head to Los Rapidos for the day
One of the standout moments of my trip was my time at Los Rápidos, Bacalar’s natural lazy river.
This peaceful stretch of lagoon winds through a narrow channel, bordered by stromatolites and mangroves. As the water funnels through the narrow passage, a gentle current is created, just enough to float along.
Head over to Los Rápidos Bacalar, where the entry fee is 160 MXN (roughly £6.50). Once you’re in, you can stay for the whole day.
Grab a life jacket and then it’s up to you to relax and drift through the river at your own pace. Along the way, you can grab chips and guacamole, enjoy a refreshing drink at the bar, or let time slip by as you glide down the river.
The entry fee includes access to changing rooms, bathrooms, and showers. Towels aren’t provided, so be sure to bring your own, or – like I did – sunbathe and dry off naturally.
One important thing to keep in mind: the stromatolites are delicate, so make sure to stay on the boardwalk and avoid stepping on them.
3. Explore Downtown Bacalar
The downtown area of Bacalar is small but vibrant, marked by a colourful sign that beckons you into its lively streets filled with street art and fantastic food spots.
At the centre of it all is the Zócalo, the central square, where you’ll find a mix of charming cafes, bars, and local hangouts.
For a sweet treat, there’s the local ice cream parlour serving up fresh scoops, not to be confused with I Scream Bar, a great local dive bar with incredible tacos, happy hour specials and tasty cocktails.
You’ll find the street market here, as well as lots of small vendors that are most definitely worth a mooch around.
You can’t miss the San Felipe Fort, it takes over half the town. Built in 1733, it was constructed to protect Bacalar from pirate attacks.
The museum inside is worth a visit if you’re keen to dive into the history, and an added bonus, its elevated position means you get a great view of the lake.
4. Grab a bite at Mr. Taco
If you’re looking for an authentic, local experience, this place is a must.
Whether you choose to sit down and enjoy your meal or grab something to go, the service is fast, friendly, and efficient. The menu is diverse (below is just one of three boards of options), offering a wide range of dishes that are both delicious and budget-friendly.
With a great selection of vegan and vegetarian dishes, this place truly has something for everyone. No surprise it’s a local favourite.
5. Swim in Cenote Azul
While many of Bacalar’s cenotes are hidden beneath the lagoon, Cenote Azul stands apart. Separated by a narrow strip of land, this stunning sinkhole, formed where limestone has collapsed, reaches an impressive depth of nearly 300 feet. For just 25MXN (£1), you can spend the day swimming in this natural phenomenon.
Diving enthusiasts keen to explore the depths should head to Mahahaul, a small fishing village that’s home to local dive centres that organize scuba trips.
How to get to Bacalar
Getting to Bacalar is easier than you might expect, with several routes available depending on your schedule and budget. Flight options vary in both cost and availability.
Flying into Cancún is generally more affordable than flying to Chetumal or Tulum, but it does mean a longer journey to Bacalar. Whether you’re seeking the fastest route or the most budget-friendly option, there’s a travel plan that will suit your needs.
Fly into Chetumal for the fastest route
The most direct way to get to Bacalar is by flying to Chetumal International Airport, located roughly 45 minutes away by car. After you land, you’ll find both rental cars and shuttle services available from the airport.
Flights from London to Chetumal start from around £850pp for a round trip.
If you’re looking to dive straight into the magic of Bacalar and minimise your travel time, this is your best option.
Exploring more of Quintana Roo? Fly to Tulum
If you’re looking to make your trip longer or break up your journey with a few days of relaxation – make a pit-stop in Tulum and soak up sand and salt-water before heading down to Bacalar.
From Tulum airport, it’s roughly a two-hour drive or shuttle, both car rentals and bus services with ADO buses are available.
If you’re looking for a more scenic, relaxed and eco-friendly route, the Maya Train journey’s through the heart of the Yucatan. Step onto the train and admire 250km of Mexico’s natural beauty before arriving in Bacalar.
Direct return flights from London to Tulum start from around £675pp for a round trip.
Looking for a more budget-friendly option? Head to Cancun and hop on the ADO bus
If you’re looking for an affordable and convenient option, flying into Cancún airport is your best bet. Cancún is one of Mexico’s major transport hubs, offering frequent international flights as well as connections to destinations across the country.
From here, you can catch an ADO bus, Mexico’s well-known intercity bus service. Tickets can be booked online or purchased at the airport upon arrival. The journey to Bacalar takes about 4 to 5 hours.
I took this route, and it was a breeze. The ADO buses are a more comfortable experience than you might expect, with air conditioning and reclining seats. About halfway through, we stopped in Tulum for a quick lunch break and to stretch our legs before boarding the next bus for the remainder of the trip.
Travelling in May, I paid around £65 for a return bus ticket.
Direct flights from London to Cancún start from £526pp for a round trip.
Best time to visit Bacalar
The weather is warm year-round, reaching highs of between 35C, and lows of between around 18C. I visited in May, and even during the evenings and early mornings, the temperature hovered around 23C.
It’s worth noting that the region has a rainy season that spans approximately five months, starting towards the end of May and lasting through November.
January to April is regarded as the best time to visit, as the weather tends to be dry, sunny and with lower humidity and rainfall than the rest of the year.
* Flight costs based on a two-week trip in April 2026, with data sourced from Google Flights.
