Each year from July 6 to 14, thousands of thrill seekers head to northeastern Spain, to Pamplona, for the Running of the Bulls.
Visitors from all over the world flock to the city, with its narrow, cobblestone streets, to watch the bulls charge along a half-mile stretch towards the Plaza de Toros bullring, a sea of fearless runners in front of them.
It’s a tradition that dates back to the 14th century, as part of the San Fermín fiesta. And while the race itself lasts mere minutes, the aftermath can be bloody.
Deaths from suffocation in pile ups have been recorded since 1910, with countless others injured. There have been several fatalities, most recently, in 2009, when a 27-year-old man was gored to death.
The event has also been criticised for animal cruelty — after the initial spectacle, the animals are killed by professional matadors. For years, animal rights groups have been calling for it to be banned, with PETA dubbing it a ‘cruel, disgusting gore-fest.’
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But, whether the event excites or horrifies you, that’s not the only reason for Pamplona to be on your radar. As Lonely Planet says, ‘even when the bulls aren’t thundering down the cobblestones through the centre of town, Pamplona makes a fascinating place to explore.’
There’s a stunning cathedral, beautiful green spaces, and the place even counts Ernest Hemingway as a fan.
Intrigued? Here’s everything you need to know about a trip to Pamplona, for those who prefer to wander through the city’s street, rather than run.
Things to see and do in Pamplona
The Hemingway route
Ernest Hemingway visited Pamplona in the 1920s, falling in love with the people and culture, spotlighting it in his 1926 novel, The Sun Also Rises.
Since then, Pamplona has been woven into Hemingway’s legacy, with one of his favourite haunts being Café Iruña, located in Plaza del Castillo. Perfect for a light lunch, it also has a bar tucked away at the back that transforms into a nightclub.
The city is also known now for its Hemingway route, which takes you on a tour of some of his most cherished spots. These include Castillo Square, the first place he laid eyes on upon arriving with his wife, and Gran Hotel La Perla, one of the oldest hotels in the peninsula.
Pamplona Cathedral
When not walking in Hemingway’s footsteps, you can explore cultural and historical landmarks aplenty in Pamplona.
Pamplona Cathedral stands proudly in the heart of the city, a 15th-century Gothic church that offers free entry before 10:15am.
Inside, you’ll discover Spain’s largest working bell—it’s 12 tons, and yes, it still rings today!—and some fascinating statues.
If you’re up for the climb, you can head to the top for breathtaking panoramic views of the city that look fresh off a postcard.
Museo de Navarra
If the cathedral has only whetted your appetite for learning about the city’s history, then head to the Museo de Navarra—entry is just €2.
Housed inside a former hospital, the four-storey museum displays exhibits from prehistoric works to the 20th century, perfect to help you peel back the layers on Pamplona’s past.
Highlights include the Map of Abauntz, which is one of Europe’s oldest maps etched into a stone, plus intricate artwork from Baroque and Renaissance creatives.
Archivo de Navarra
Once you’ve got the history bug, head to Archivo de Navarra. It houses documents that are centuries old and is itself one of the most ancient and emblematic historical buildings in Navarre.
The Archive is the ideal spot for immersing yourself in the city’s history in a welcoming, warm atmosphere, whether it be the cultural, political, or social evolution of the community.
It also hosts special events, workshops, and guided tours to help deepen your understanding before you close the pages and head back outside to witness the buzz for yourself.
Walls of Pamplona
For when you’d simply prefer to be out in the open air, travel back in time by walking the walls of Pamplona.
The city walls are one of the most interesting and best-preserved military structures in Spain, with King Philip II building the fortifications in 1569.
Initially, as a medieval city, Pamplona erected the walls to defend itself against invaders.
Now, tourists can walk along the path between the Media Luna and Taconera parks, which offers the perfect juxtaposition of both serenity in the cold stones and an inviting green landscape in the background.
What to eat in Pamplona
For the foodies, you’ll be spoiled for choice in Pamplona.
With more than 300 restaurants, bars, taverns, and cafés on offer, there’s something for everyone, whether it be a cosy café or a luxurious Michelin-starred experience.
Renowned for its delicious cuisine, Pamplona is especially loved for its fresh vegetables, such as asparagus, onions, and wild mushrooms.
As for traditional dishes you simply must sample before leaving, recommendations include txistorra, which is a type of thick sausage served in different ways, the most popular being chopped up in a bowl with scrambled eggs and fried potatoes.
Circling back to the bulls, yes, the people of Pamplona eat them too! Estofado de toro is a traditional bull stew made from bull’s tails, carrots, potatoes, bell peppers, onions, garlic, tomato sauce, red wine, and saffron.
But if that’s not your vibe, why not try ajoarriero—salted cod mashed up with garlic—or cordero al chilindrón—lamb, in particular stew, is huge in the north of Spain—or, after all of that, one of the city’s creamy desserts?
Wherever you are in Pamplona, you won’t go hungry.
How to get to Pamplona
There are currently no direct flights to Pamplona from the UK, so you’ll have to make a pitstop, usually in another Spanish city, like Barcelona or Madrid.
For example, if you were to head to the city for a long weekend in August (August 8 to 11), you could get flights with Iberia from London Heathrow, making a stop in Madrid. The return journey would cost £351.
Alternatively, Bilbao Airport is about 100 miles away, or a 2 hour drive, operating a direct route every Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday from Bristol Airport with Easyjet. A return trip in August (August 7 to 12) costs £162.98.
If you don’t want to hire a car, trains with Renfe (Spain’s national railway company) between the two cities are easy to navigate, and start at £14 one way.
So much to see and do in Spain
With locals in Spanish hotspots like Barcelona, Palma and the Canary Islands protesting against overtourism, why not try these alternative cities, with fewer tourists.
- Dénia is an unspoiled coastal city on Spain’s Costa Blanca, between the mountains and sea in the province of Alicante. There’s a quaint old town, full of those all important tapas bars, and for the water babies amongst us, Cova Tallada is a natural cave that was chiselled out of the rock face in the 12th century. And the best way to see it? Kayaking.
- Cudillero, a small and unassuming fishing port in Asturias, northern Spain. Nestled in the Pico Paradiella mountains, with a surrounding landscape of rolling hills and horseshoe cliffs, it’s an Instagrammer’s paradise. It’s perhaps most famous for the the brightly-coloured ‘hanging houses’ that protrude from the hillside.
- For the sunniest city in Europe, head to Cartenga, in the souteast. It boasts an impressive 283 hours of sun per month, with temperatures averaging 19.1°C and peaking at 29°C during the summer months of July and August.
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