People say my London borough is rough, but they don’t understand its magic

In the 19th installment of Metro Travel Hot Takes, Jessica Lindsay has strong words for anyone who turns their nose up at the borough she lives in.

Say you live in Deptford and you’ll likely get one of two adjectives in response: ‘rough’ or ‘up and coming’. And having lived in this little corner of South East London for the past decade, both infuriate me.

For one, to say Deptford is rough is patently untrue. Crime rates in Lewisham are on par with most other boroughs, but far lower than the likes of Westminster, Camden and Kensington and Chelsea. I feel safer walking down the High Street than I ever have on Oxford Street.

Then there’s the idea that Deptford is on the up, which is a backhanded way of saying it wasn’t worth a look until recently.

In the time I’ve been a resident, gentrification has undoubtedly ramped up, not least after Phil Spencer endorsed it as his homebuyer hotspot in 2022.

However, a few new-build developments will never change the lively, village feel, and the birthplace of creatives from Dire Straits to Reeves and Mortimer was ‘cool’ long before Time Out said so.

If anything, it’s great in spite of gentrification, not because of it.

I ended up in Deptford mostly by accident, when a breakup left me scouring Spareroom for a quick escape.

Since moving to the capital from rural Scotland the previous year, I’d already moved three times, always in search of a neighbourhood that felt like home.

It didn’t take long for me to fall in love with the place and put down roots, and it’s always annoyed me that so many are too blinded by preconceptions to see its magic.

In some ways, I hope the naysayers leave Deptford for those of us who ‘get’ it. But I hate that their comments could put people off visiting.

In my book, SE8 is the most vibrant part of London. So before you jump to conclusions, here’s what critics are missing.

A treasure trove at Deptford Market

On Wednesday, Friday and Saturday, Deptford is abuzz with the sound of market traders and shoppers.

The bric-a-brac stalls on Douglas Way are a mish-mash – think half-eaten chocolate bars nestled between antique silverware – but if you’re willing to do some digging, you can uncover some real treasures at pocket change prices.

Elsewhere, the bargains range from fresh fruit and veg to new clothes and houseplants. It’s easy to spend the whole day pottering through everything; just remember to bring cash with you.

Caribbean roasts and Irish spicebags

Deptford’s diverse population makes for a world of culinary choices, and you’ll find everything from Nigerian puff puff to Neapolitan pizza as you walk the streets.

Café culture is huge, with Mouse Tail, Lomond Coffee, and The Waiting Room serving coffees and light bites around the Market Yard.

If you’re looking for a proper caff (not café), Jenny’s on New Cross Road serves a stellar fry-up for just over a fiver.

Head to Cafe Mama Pho on Evelyn Street for no-nonsense service and the freshest noodle soup you’ve ever tried, or Marcella on the High Street for homemade pasta and Italian small plates in a relaxed setting.

Make sure to check out M&D’s authentic Japanese, and try an Irish spicebag at Paddy Wok by the Creekside.

Buster Mantis – owned by the same Jamaican/British family who run The Watergate bar and small plates restaurant – is brilliant for reworked Caribbean classics, including a banging Sunday roast featuring rice and peas.

As for drinking, the Market Yard is packed with revellers on summer evenings. Themed around the owner’s grandma who loved all things Eastenders, Little Nans is one kitschy bar that every Deptford visitor has to try. I recommend the Costa Del Deptford or the George Michael cocktail.

For old-school pub vibes, you can’t get better than the Little Crown on New Cross Road. It’s unassuming from the outside, but landlady Geraldine’s welcome is reason enough to head in for perfectly-pulled pints, friendly regulars, and sports on the big screen.

The Dog and Bell is another Deptford gem, hosting year-round events and drawing in a crowd spanning all ages, as is the Bird’s Nest with iconic red bus out front and packed live music schedule.

You can’t go wrong with the Royal Albert, Lucky Anchor or Big John’s Biltong Bar either.

Strength in diversity

While you only need to look around to see a wealth of street art, Deptford is also home to more traditional galleries such as Art in Perpetuity Trust and Cockpit. Or, if dance is more your thing, there are regular performances at Trinity Laban Conservatoire’s Creekside location.

The Albany is the main hub for cultural goings-on; stand-up comedy, poetry, music, roller disco nights, you name it.

And, until September 20th, you can experience Storehouse, an immersive show held in the revamped paper warehouse of the same name on the side of the river.

There’s plenty to do and see, but what really makes Deptford special is the people.

Take long-time local faces like Terry, the hardware store owner, who’ll find you whatever you need from his Aladdin’s cave selection and whose booming laugh can only be described as contagious.

Or Ruby, the beauty salon owner, who can have multiple conversations at once – in Vietnamese and English – while turning your nails into works of art.

Then mix in a few trendy Goldsmiths students, ‘Jesus loves you’ leaflet-wielding evangelicals and old-school punks, and you’ll start to get a feel for Deptford’s rich and distinctive community.

When my mum comes down to visit, her refrain about the place is far more accurate than any ‘rough’ or ‘up and coming’ ignorance.

‘All of life is here,’ she reminds me. And it is.

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