The town of San Andrés Tenextatiloyanin Pueblais known for its pottery activity, but among ceramic figures and clay pots a seasoning stands out, that of the cook Teodora Pérez Zacaríaswhich has attracted the attention of locals and strangers by combining inherited techniques and farm products to keep the culinary essence of its community alive.
“A few months ago a group of people came to try my food and it turned out that he was a renowned chef and the owner of a restaurant, who proposed that I train their cooks,” said Mrs. Teodora, 53, in an interview with 24 HORAS.
But the magic of the dishes that seek to promote a new attraction in the town comes with a hint of tradition: “My mother taught me how to cook and I like to cook, beyond the fact that I make a living from it, I like to do it, I like to dedicate time to the kitchen and I think I have learned to apply my touch.
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“Although I don’t know very well what that touch is,” he said, laughing, “when they ask me about it, I don’t know how to describe it and I’ve realized that even if they put the same amount of chilies and so on, it doesn’t taste the same. I think it’s the cooking time that I apply to each thing,” shared Pérez Zacarías.
And although that may just be an inherited seasoning, the truth is that there is also magic and even personality in the ingredients, because from a chiltepín ground in metate for the tummy, through handmade tortillas and culminating with a mole poblano that begins by grinding chilies, seeds and chocolate, they all share their artisanal aptitude.
“The corn is planted and harvested by my family, I buy it from them, my children help me clean it but I wash it, nixtamalize it, cook it and serve it. The other ingredients also come from here, from what the neighbors sell. For me it is important to maintain that quality of the ingredients because I believe that in addition to the town’s pottery, I can offer something of myself, of what I like to make,” highlighted the cook.
On the other hand, he said he cares about keeping his tradition alive. “I have a daughter and a son and yes I have taught them both how to cook,” he said.
The Living Milpa by Teodora Pérez Zacarías
He currently opened a dining room in his town but his position is the project that occupies him for now: “one of my nephews took an initiative for me and the government exchanged my stovetops for grills,” he added.
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About this initiative he said that it is called The Living Milpa“but I’m going to change the name to nahuatl“We are a Nahua region and we have to enhance a little of what we are, our traditions and above all preserve them, starting with our traditional cuisine that is ancient and that we must keep alive and strong for those who do not know it,” he concluded.
San Andrés Tenextatiloyan, potter’s town
San Andrés Tenextatiloyan, a town known for its pottery activity and throughout the year, is one of the artisan epicenters that prepare seasonal figures.
Its streets, full of artisanal spirit, make up an experience that does not need the nickname of a magical town because it has been one from its first steps.
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