A floating city born for Instagram, Venice is a feast for the eyes, with elegant canals, opulent palaces and world-famous artwork.
But it has paid a price for its beauty: around 30 million tourists visit each year, eclipsing the local population, which has now dwindled to less than 50,000.
Hollowed out by short-term rentals and trampled by overtourism, the City of Bridges has become a symbol of the excesses of the modern world, and not the most attractive of destinations if you’re after some R&R.
Fortunately, there’s a lesser-known spot that offers a similar yet calmer experience — but it’s not in Italy.
Mogán, a small fishing port in Gran Canaria, one of Spain’s Canary Islands, has a touch of Venice’s charm with fewer crowds.
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Widely considered Gran Canaria’s most beautiful village, Mogán has is affectionately known as the ‘Little Venice of the Canaries’ because of the picturesque canals that run from the marina to the centre of town.
Its quaint little bridges, sea water inlets and maze of narrow paths are the perfect setting for a romantic stroll, accompanied by live jazz music often played in restaurants along the water.
The houses are whitewashed in traditional Canarian style and very few are more than two storeys high, which has helped the village to maintain an authentic atmosphere.
The haven is just a 45-minute drive from Gran Canaria Airport (LPA), the main airport for the island where you can rent a car or hail a taxi.
Its sheltered perch, hugged by the coast and protected by wide slopes, means it enjoys year-round sun, with highs of 25°C in October and 23°C in November.
And it’s a steal to get there: you can direct fly from London Stansted for £45 return on Ryanair next month. That’s based on departing on Friday, November 7, and returning on Friday, November 14.
Near Mogán’s harbour, you’ll find plenty to keep you occupied for a week in the sun.
The old quarter of the town is home to the Church of San Antonio de Padua, a beautiful church built in 1814, and there are cafes and restaurants serving the best of Spanish and Mediterranean cuisine, from tapas to fried fish.
If you time your visit right, Friday is market day, when the square transforms into a smorgasbord of flowers, seasonal fruit and vegetables, ceramics, clothes and trinkets.
Don’t miss the street vendors selling papas arrugadas (shrivelled potatoes), a local delicacy cooked in seawater and slathered in a spicy sauce made from garlic, herbs, tomato and chilli.
Provided the weather stays fine, the star attraction is Playa de Mogán, a large, yellow-sand beach that arcs around the marina.
The water is perfect for kids as its clear and shallow a long way in. In some places, you can see colourful fish swimming beneath the turquoise ocean.
The sea is the lifeblood of the this town, and if you have time, it’s worth taking a water taxi or a boat tour to nearby Puerto Rico. Some include a glass of beer or fizz, otherwise you can bring your own.
For those interested in exploring Gran Canaria’s volcanic underworld, the Yellow Submarine is an afternoon well spent.
This glass-bottom e-submarine dives 25 metres below the surface, giving a glimpse of the reef and craggy ocean floor.
While Mogán is nowhere near as crowded as Venice, it also has a dependent and at times difficult relationship with tourism.
More Venice alternatives around the world
- The ‘Venice of Portugal’ is a lesser-known gem that costs £23 to travel to
- Why the ‘Venice of France’ is the best city you’ve never heard of
- ‘Venice of Eastern Europe’ is a ‘youthful’ city with £35 flights — and 800 gnomes
- Italy’s ‘best-kept secret’ is the home of Tiramisù and just 30 minutes from Venice
- The ‘Venice of the Algarve’ is an ‘understated’ gem that’s 23C in October with £28 flights
Research published by Spain’s National Statistics Institute earlier this year showed that 44% of the town’s population are tourists.
In response, the local government introduced a €0.15 daily charge for anyone staying in Mogán’s hotels, apartments and holiday homes.
The town’s mayor said the goal of the tourist tax is to ensure tourism remains sustainable and benefits both locals and visitors.
Gran Canaria as a whole has experienced an uptick in tourism in recent years.
In 2022, visitor numbers rose to nearly 3.8 million, significantly higher than during the previous years when the pandemic led to a sharp decline.
Before Covid, the island consistently attracted over four million tourists annually, with Mogán being one of the most popular destinations.
The surge in tourist numbers in recent years has prompted local authorities to consider ways to better manage the impact of this growing demand on the region’s resources and infrastructure.
