The smell of sizzling oil, caramelised sugar, and stinky tofu fills the air,as the buzz of scooters and street vendors swells to a powerful crescendo.
If sensory overload was a place, it would be Taipei.
Home to a thriving nightlife scene, historic palaces and some of the region’s most revered cuisine, the Taiwanese capital is one of Southeast Asia’s most worthwhile yet under-the-radar destinations.
Sitting comfortably at the crossroads of tradition and modernity, it’s less overwhelming than Tokyo and Bangkok, yet it offers everything a traveller could want: bustling markets, breathtaking views, and street food you’ll be thinking about long after you’ve left.
With an ever-more powerful China pressing at its borders, Taiwan’s story is one of resistance and reinvention. Only recently have most Taiwanese begun to proudly identify as such, reclaiming their culture, language, and a sense of belonging.
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Now, the island is rebuilding its tourism. After disappearing during Covid, travellers are returning in record numbers.
The island welcomed 8 million international visitors in 2024, mostly from neighbouring Japan, South Korea, and China. But with campaigns like the Tourism Administration’s Waves of Wonders, it hopes to broaden its appeal to European shores.
Governments can funnel tens of millions into these kind of initiatives, but they are only successful when there is substance behind them.
My guide, Yvonne, said that once you visit Taiwan, you’ll always want to return. So here I am, testing that theory.
Vibrant night markets
Fresh off a China Airlines flight from London, we didn’t let jet lag stop us from heading straight to Taipei’s famous night markets. A staple of local life, this is where the city comes alive.
There are around 20 markets scattered across the capital, each with its own character, from narrow alleys thick with steam to wide boulevards humming with chatter.
Yvonne introduced us to some of Taipei’s favourite dishes: oyster omelette, dumplings and stinky tofu (don’t be put off by the name — it’s just a deep-fried fermented tofu that smells strong, but is surprisingly mild and delicious). Each carried that signature umami note synonymous with Asia: never heavy, always balanced, letting seasoning take the lead.
I pair it with winter melon bubble tea, a refreshing tipple and one of the most popular flavours.
We’re squeezed in among locals, who, as Yvonne explains, come here to unwind after work or school. Some laughing over cards, others flirting over snacks, it’s the kind of friendly chaos that feels instantly welcoming.
Taipei: a fascinating and futuristic city
If you’re like us and only have 24 hours in the capital, start your morning with a quick stop at 7-Eleven or Family Mart.
Grab one of their dangerously good pastries (sweet, savoury, or somewhere in between) or the ever-reliable onigiri. My go-to is anything with red bean or mochi if you love that soft, chewy texture.
Don’t skip the local twist on sweets: grapes and melons are popular flavours here, showing up in everything from gummies to drinks and even chewing gum.
Next, make your way to Lungshan Temple. Built in the 18th century, it’s one of Taipei’s most beautiful places of worship. It feels almost theatrical in its detail: curling rooflines, carved dragons, and the smell of incense in the air.
Inside, you’ll see tables overflowing with offerings: flowers, fruit, and neatly wrapped gifts, all meticulously prepared for the gods.
Pause to watch locals seeking guidance by tossing moon blocks (jiaobei), crescent-shaped wooden divination tools that land to reveal a ‘yes’ or ‘no’ from above.
For a midday refuel, stop by one of Taipei’s bakeries to try a mooncake. They come in all kinds of flavours – from salted egg yolk and matcha mochi to cheese yolk – and make the perfect souvenir.
Then make your way to Dihua Street, a historic market where old meets new, with traditional herb and tea shops sitting beside modern cafes and design stores.
Next, head to Dadaocheng Dock, where the wide river offers one of the best panoramas of Taipei’s skyline – or go all out and see it from Taipei 101 – 106-floor glass tower that dominates the cityscape.
If you’re there, treat yourself to a dumpling feast at Din Tai Fung, the city’s best-loved culinary export.
There’s plenty to see in Taipei, but if you’re short on time, don’t miss a trip to Ximending in the Wanhua District.
Often called Taipei’s Times Square or Shibuya, it’s where the city gathers at its brightest and busiest in a swirl of neon, karaoke bars, vintage shops, and snack stalls open long past midnight.
Go after dark, when the neon takes over.
Sun Moon Lake
Once you’ve had your fill of Taipei’s energy, flee the city for Sun Moon Lake, Taiwan’s largest stretch of water, surrounded by misty peaks and dense greenery.
Locals call it one of the island’s most sacred places, and it’s easy to see why: the light changes by the minute, catching the surface like glass.
Hop on a boat and you’ll see the light shift as you move, the lake changing from mirror-blue to silver in minutes.
Each year, thousands swim across it during the Sun Moon Lake Swimming Carnival, testing their endurance in three kilometres of open water that feels much bigger than it looks.
Back on land, Wenwu Temple watches over it all. It’s not just a place of worship, but a place to pause and look back at the lake from above in all its beauty and stillness.
And, if you’re looking for love, stop by the Matchmaker God Temple or let a small figurine in a glass box quietly hand you your fate.
Indigenous cuisines
When your stomach starts to rumble, head back to shore and along the bustling Yiyong Street to try Indigenous cuisine.
While Taiwan’s culinary soul lives in its street stalls and night markets, it it the Indigenous food that truly steals the show.
The island is home to 16 officially recognised Indigenous groups, each with its own flavours, ingredients, and stories.
Millet, a staple grain across many tribes, appears in everything from delicately sweet millet wine to chewy, nutty rice cakes that carry the warmth of open-fire cooking.
Fish plays a starring role, too. Flying fish caught off the eastern coast, or tilapia and trout grilled on hot stone slabs, gently smoked and salted only by the fire itself.
Finally, there’s bamboo rice: sticky grains folded with mushrooms and bits of meat, packed into bamboo tubes and roasted until the wood infuses the rice with a deep, smoky aroma.
The dishes arrive bright and layered, often garnished with forest greens or wild herbs, tasting of smoke and sea at once.
Explore the South
From Sun Moon Lake, you can either head south to Tainan to dive back into city life or keep the slower pace in the tranquil Alishan National Scenic Area.
In Alishan, take the narrow-gauge forest railway past tea farms and centuries-old cypress forests, climbing high enough to watch the mountains disappear into a sea of clouds.
We didn’t get a chance to ride it due to bad weather, but the views would stop anyone in their tracks.
Further south, Taiwan’s oldest city, Tainan, is a non-negotiable for anyone drawn to history.
Visit Chihkan Tower for a glimpse of its Dutch colonial past, stop by 17th-century Confucius Temple, Taiwan’s oldest and the island’s first official school dedicated to Confucian learning known for its elegant, but restrained design and end the day at one of the city’s many night markets.
The verdict
Our tour guide was right, I left wanting more.
Taiwan has a quiet kind of magnetism that’s hard to forget and even harder to put into words. While locals go out of their way to make you feel welcome, the country doesn’t really need to try.
Its natural beauty, vibrant capital, and rich and layered cuisine speak for themselves.
Whether you’re after calm or adventure, Taiwan has it all — a place that’s as peaceful or as full of colour and flavour as you want it to be.
Where to stay in Taiwan
Taipei – Shangri-La Far Eastern, superior rooms start at £149 per night, including breakfast. Perfect for anyone wanting a mix of five-star luxury, skyline views, and easy access to top attractions.
Sun Moon Lake – The Lalu Hotel, Courtyard Suites start at £450 per night, including breakfast. Ideal for travellers seeking peace and stunning lake views.
Tainan – Silks Place Tainan, deluxe double rooms start at £99 per night. Breakfast isn’t included but is available for an additional £18. Great for easy access to historic temples and markets, with elegant rooms to unwind in.
Patrycja Zaras was a guest of Taiwan Tourism Administration and Bamboo Travel.
The 14-day Treasures of Taiwan itinerary costs from £3950 per person, based on two people sharing a room.
The price includes international flights, 12 nights’ B&B (plus two dinners), road transfers and all tours on a private basis, and an expert driver/guide.
Bamboo Travel (020 7720 9285, bambootravel.co.uk)
